My first 3D print.

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(Bruno Pettorelli) #1

My first 3D print. Not a good print, don’t know what to do to improve it :S

If anyone know how to make this thing better, I listen any advice.

Printed with a RepRapPro Mendel model.

(Ben Malcheski) #2

What temperature did you have the nozzle at and what is the material? It looks like it was printed too hot and/or did not cool sufficiently between layers. Once that is under control it looks like you may need to calibrate the extruder steps/mm and possibly the x and/or y.

(Ben Malcheski) #3

Also which gcode tool chain are you using (ie slic3r, skeinforge) and what is the layer height?

(Bracken Dawson) #4

Its not a bad first print at all.

The infill looks a bit sparse, if that’s set faster it might be that your extruder drive isn’t tight enough. If you tighten it a bit you may also get temps down.

Also there seems to be some slack in either X or Y. Sorting that should get rid of the flat edges and help the infill meet the perimeters.

(Christopher Stroh) #5

If that is your first print, my friend, I would say your first coarse of action is to go out, find yourself a suitable God and give him or her a big thank you. --I would have given my left arm for my first prints to look like this! Congrats.

(Bruno Pettorelli) #6

@Ben_Malcheski , I use Skeinforge. I use PLA filament of 1.75mm.
I had setup the skeinforge to PLA but it seems the temperature aren’t identical in Prontointerface (head 205, bed 85) and when printing (head 230, bed 60)
I calibrated the extruder motor at less than 1% before the print.
From the piece, I remark I got a 19mm when 20mm asked on the Y axe and a 20mm for a asked 20mm on X.

(Bracken Dawson) #7

Ok, wow, that’s hot. I usually don’t preach temps as I don’t know how we’ll calibrated your thermistor is. Your 220 might be my 185, but in this case it probably is not. Set the temp down to at least 190 and tighten the extruder until it works.

Also what is your layer height?

(Bruno Pettorelli) #8

Where do I see the layer height settings?

(Bracken Dawson) #9

I’m not sure in Skeinforge, probably one of the first tabs. I never got it to even produce working gcode before Slic3r came along, it’s a lot nicer. I don’t want to stifle you if you have it working, but I 'm pretty sure just dinosaurs use Skeinforge at this point.

(Bruno Pettorelli) #10

I don’t know, I’m a newcomer and full newbie on software coming along with printers.
I use the software RepRapPro provide on github. Now, I’m open to any stuff until it works with the printer.

(Bracken Dawson) #11

I guess the reprappro came with a pre-configured Skienforge to an extent then. It was this 3 part blog that got me going with Slic3r: http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html

(Ben Malcheski) #12

Layer height is under carve in SF. 0.25mm is a good starting point for 0.35mm nozzles.

Slic3r is much less elusive. Better yet, I have been using Repetier instead of Pronterface http://www.repetier.com/download/ which has both embedded and an integrated plater. You can also change the flowrate on the fly which is the same as the M92 code ie M92 E(current value)*(percentage change), ie percentage change = 1.1 or 0.9 etc. http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code Print this thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24238 at .95 infill and then tweak the flow rate so you seen tiny gaps between the lines and obviously solid on the face layers. Once you know the flow rate multiplier you can set that under the filament settings in Slic3r and from then on leave the slider under manual control at 100%.

Bed leveling and flatness is also extremely important for getting really high quality prints. My first bed was a plate of aluminum and it was slightly warped. Then I got a plate of aluminum milled, it’s much better but still is not nearly as flat as needed for printing high quality so now I use a sheet of glass that I have minimally clamped over the heated aluminum plate so it stays flat.

(Joe Murphy) #13

I also have a reprappro mendel and first thing i did was ditch Skienforge for Slic3r. Here is my Slic3r config file. http://pastebin.com/RTNuLxYK hope this helps!

(Bruno Pettorelli) #14

the print was a 0.4mm layer height.

I had leveled the bed and the X axe. I will give a try to slic3r and try that piece.

Thanks for the slic3r config file.

(Bruno Pettorelli) #15

@Joe_Murphy , did you have the glass on your bed?
The first layer did not glue on my glass with your settings. Perhaps my Z level 0 is not correct on my printer.

(Bruno Pettorelli) #16

@Ben_Malcheski , I print the http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24238

X=24.1mm
Y=24.5mm
Z=24.8mm

(Joe Murphy) #17

Yes, I’m printing on glass and Kapton tape

(Ben Malcheski) #18

@Bruno_Pettorelli it looks like you have about the right flowrate. I wouldn’t sweat the dimensions so much right now. What temperature and speed did you print the 5mm cubes at? It still looks like it was a little hot. The top cube was definitely printed too fast for the temperature and didn’t have enough time to cool between layers. It looks like as the z increased (and each layer got smaller in area) the separation between the wall and fill increased - leading me to believe that temperature and speed need to be figured out.

Did you use Slic3r?