Must be something wrong with my country....replaced the arcylic plate with wood,

3D Printing
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1

Must be something wrong with my country…replaced the arcylic plate with wood, nylon wont stick…trying now with a new plastic painters tape i found, it sticks so far to the tape, but as you can see the nylon wont stick to itself…temp is 220-230C

2

aborted the print, i can peal layers off with my fingers…

3

i have no idea what to try next, nylon just wont print…faulty nylon ?

4

If the filament won’t stick to itself, it is too cool. The nylon is sticking to the plastic tape because the plastic in the plastic tape is melting. (I should warn you that I’ve not extruded nylon, but this is a truth universally acknowledged.)

5

the curl/seperation you see 2mm above the bed was probably because of lowering to 220C, the rest was 230…trying 240 now

6

Try 245-250 degrees and Garolite LE (Tufnol Whale in the UK) for the bed.

7

got better results with 240C, but i still can tear the layers off but with force, at 250C the surface got uglier, 240C gives pretty smooth surface…

8

Slow down the print speed, try at 40mm/s first and if it works go faster.

9

You can also consider experimenting with the idea that there exists a specific area of adhesion at a given temperature, although the elongation of the polymer in the jet causes me to perceive there’s a limit of continuity for a part based on temperature gradients in a printed area and fresh bead. Below the rubbery state (temperature) of the polymer, you’re never going to bond mostly amorphous semi-crystallized layers together because they’ve had time to shrink/ shape recover. At too high of a temp, you’re going to begin degrading the polymer and it’s going to smell like smoke and the products of decomp. (safety–> proper ventilation). If you choose to do a “large part” you have to print small areas fast and optimize the retention time of the polymer in the heating barrel, along with insuring there’s some pressure (negative z/overlap) such that the semi-molten material comes in contact with the jet. Have you tried printing a dime, quarter, or a cubic square with success? My guess is that you need to practice printing triangular walls, determine your optimal -Z, retrace distance (cooling causes delamination between layers, so this will be the xy plane where you achieve a continuous part).