Hi
I want to fit this controller onto my Diode Laser but have a problem with the end stops.
I order some up which where supposed to be 5-30v but they are actually 6-30v and wont operate on 5v.
I have some boost boards that will push the voltage up ok but will the circuit operate as expected with these inline ? I suspect they will but wanted some advice before i i try to wire them up.
thanks in advance.
If you got 24V Hall effect switches, they should work OK with the DLC32, they did on mine.
However I used pull down as active, not pull up and wired them to the 24V supply for my motor driver.
You can always use regular mechanical switches if you feel better.
thanks for the reply. I was unsure wether the power coming from another source (i.e. not from the 3 pin on the board) would affect anything regarding the signal. Testing is not throwing the alarm on the controller. I can see the switch activate ( via the LED and Meter), the controller normally prompts for ‘Hard Limit’ but i am not seeing this?
thanks
Did you enable the soft or hard limits?
Hi
Yes i have enabled Hard limits, and have re-tested this morning with various degrees of success. This is a 4 wire sensor so i have the Vin & Gnd (Brown & Blue) soldered up going onto the booster, which is set to about 6.6v, and signal (either Black or White, NC or NO respectively).
I am currently doing some other checks ( bad joints and the like) and have had the ‘Hard fault’ show on some on occasions but not others ( hence the tests). These findings are what posed my initial question.
Do you have a link to this switch?
What booster?
The electronics only need to pull the pin down, not up. Applying over 5V to most of these inputs will likely damage the controller.
Motor drivers on my machine (and the controller) run off 24V, when I used a DLC32, I used the existing Hall Effect switches which pull down to complete the path to ground. The pull ups were on the controller and, although I was using 24V switches, it was an open collector device, so it pulled the supplied 5V from the controller, low.
Sure, it was TL-W5P3 from AliExpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005536229004.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.110.1a0118027ZDQaZ)
and a Boost Convertor From AliExpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006365807934.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.222.1a0118027ZDQaZ)
Currently connected to X endstop from mainboard. i will give some info i think may be useful(?)
3 wires from board ( Black - Com, Red - 4.9v, Yellow - signal with no voltage present)
4 wires from switch (Blue - Com, Blue - +V, Black , White)
Touching Yellow to Black activates ‘Hard Limit’ on DLC32 (measures 3.2v across wires with meter)
Back,Red connected to converter Vin +/-
Convertor set to about 6.6v - shows 6.6/6.7 with slight variations
Proximity lights if activated
Switch deactivated measures 0v between Com out and Black - 6.05v between Com out and white
Switch activated measures 5.38v between Com out and Black - 0v between and white
if i short yellow and black and activate the switch i get no ‘Hard Limit’ alert
hope this makes sense.
any thoughts appreciated
The link you supplied shows three wires from the Hall Effect switch.
Duplicated the blue wire, can’t be connected to both com and +V
So… you totally confused me 
You only need power to supply the blue and brown leads, the output goes to your board.
The switch should not pull the values up, it should pull them down.
The switch should be NPN NO
Ditch the buck converter, you have no need for it, run your switches off your motor/board supply. Ensure you have the correct switch.
Hi, sorry for delay
The ad covers multiple switches (2,3,4 wire), these are 4 wire switches.
That was typo on my part, it should have been Brown not Blue on +V.
I ordered PNP NO so i guess i’ll re-order the NPN version 
and try again.
Help appreciated, look out for a new instalment once i get the replacements 
Great…
Hope the PNP type didn’t damage your motherboard.
We’ll be waiting… good luck.
