I have removed the original electronics of my K40 laser and I have put a MKS DLC 2.1 controller board, I have followed several schemes that I have seen on the internet and I have connected it in the following way:
But the laser does not activate, the power supply works fine, the axes move, but the laser does not turn on.
Does anyone know what the problem is?
Remove the wire (red) from the L pin (rightmost) on the LPS
Add a jumper wire to pin L
From the control panel enable the laser to fire
Briefly touch that jumper (on L) to the ground.
Does the laser fire?
- If it does not something is wrong with your LPS [go to 1a-b]
a. If you have interlocks check to see that they are closed
b. If you have a water sensor check that it is shorted
- If it does then something is wrong with the PWM signal coming from the controller
a. Check controller PWM configuration
Let us know what you find from the above.
When you say try connecting L to ground. Does any GND work? Or does it have to be a specific PIN.
I have tried what you tell me and if I bridge L with ground the laser does not fire. I also have bridged G and P. I understand that the problem is the power supply, is that correct?
If you push the test (red) button on your LPS does it fire?
On the LPS is the LED next to the test switch ON or OFF?
Now I have this configuration and the laser does not fire by pressing the red button of the LPS.
The red test button bypasses all the controls and interlocks except the IN control.
Connect the IN pin to a 5V pin and then briefly push the red test button again.
Caution this sets the laser power at max.
Did it fire now?
Are you sure the supply has AC power?
Is the LED on the LPS on or off?
In the picture, it looks like the LPS is on a bench?
How is it connected to the laser and how is the cathode of the laser grounded?
Perhaps a picture of the whole setup will help.
Currently I have the LPS out since I have enlarged the laser and made a 3D printed box for it. I have changed the electronics for an MKS and the laser cathode comes out from the L- pin to the ammeter and from the ammeter to the laser and the positive comes out directly from the LPS.
The power supply led turns on and the fan also turns on.
In IN I have 5V which is provided by the original potentiometer.
I have nothing connected to pin L of connector P3.
Do I have to make a jumper from the L pin of the P2 connector?
The FG pin must be in contact with the metal case of the laser?
Ok this generally means you have AC and low voltage.
Did you measure 5V on IN?
So with IN at 5VDC the test button does not fire the laser, right?
The test button bypasses all the controls but IN. So if the laser does not fire with the Test button and IN is at 5VDC then L is academic. The test button does the same as L but it does it internally.
Your laser has a metal case???
In any case FG should be connected to the frame and would not cause this problem.
Tell me about the machine and LPS history:
- How old?
- How hard has it been run?
- Has the tube overheated?
- How old is the LPS?
- What kind of coolant are you using?
- Have you seen/heard any arcs, hissing or crackling.
In case you are not aware the output of the LPS is LETHAL so stay far away.
The challenge is that this problem can be a bad LPS or a bad tube or both and there really is not a safe way to tell which. Therefore we check everything around it to verify it is working.
Generally if the tube is bad and the LPS is good you will get arching.
My guess is that your LPS is bad but I will wait for the answers to the above…