A colleague at work has a hobby of pottery, and wanted to be able to stamp words into her works. I offered to create these stamps in FreeCAD. I made a nice simple model in which I just choose the text string, the font, and size, and it automatically resizes everything to make a stamp.
Load it up, select Word:
Modify at least CHANGE ME and maybe size and font:
You can change the length of the WordPad and the Block if desired.
Word.FCStd (976.7 KB)
Hereâs the easiest way I know of to make your own from scratch using FreeCAD today.
This doesnât get you exactly the same thing I made, but I think itâs an easier way if you arenât trying to make it parametric like I did.
If you want to put more strings in different places, such as in multiple lines, just:
Now you have a multi-line stamp!
I think that some FreeCAD developers are working towards reducing the need to bounce between Part Design and Part workbenches for workflows like this, so it might get easier over time.
Nice. Iâve made a ton of leather stamps with my 3d printer. Great to see the technology expand into other fields.
3D printing wonât work for my heat transfer embossing machine, though!
lol. Just went down a rabbit hole.
The technology to print metals at home is availableâŚif your pockets are deep enough or have all the required support equipment but it does use a regular home 3d printer in the process.
You need to have a kiln or furnace that can get hot enough to melt metal.
A 1kg bronze filament roll is ONLY around $300 US.
I do have a kiln, but the film needs a flat surface. So Iâd be taking it out of the kiln and putting it on the mill, instead of⌠just doing this on a mill in the first place.
Much cheaper to use plain brass, aluminum, etc. an just mill it on the CNC. 
Also I still havenât made a temperature ramp controller for the kiln. I have all the parts, I just havenât written the program.
(Speaking of which⌠@John_Bump did you ever get your oven controller firmware working to the point that you would share it? 
)
Interesting! did you use a âspecialâ filament for this, or just PLA⌠? Any tips for someone who knows some leatherwork but has not tried stamping (yet)?
I have been slowly working on a phone case, and like the idea of stamping a logo and name on it. The stamps themselves are easy for me to design and make (OpenScad) but the materials and technique is somewhat less clear to me.
Just PLA. I did play around with the depth of the stamps but learned it is stamp design specific. I just use solid infill for strength and a press though not mandatory. I know they are not as durable as the bronze stamps but as soon as they show any wear they can be reprinted thanks to how cheap it is to print.
example stamp model used for my whip holder
TPU for ink stamps. 
Thanks for the help on this âŚnext step for me is to make it 100% modifiable for other uses.
Youâre welcome!
You can look at the expressions I used for sketch constraints if you want to make it resize nicely around whatever you do for multiple lines. You could use that for placement of the Part Extrude objects.
I am currently away from my laptop, but I think I would place each string centered on the origin, do a separate extruder from each string, use expressions on the associated string data to place the extrusions, then Union them into a Fusion. Then use expressions on the strings to constrain the handle pad.
Feel free to ask if that doesnât work, and feel free to attach FCStd files.
Hello, friends,
Iâd like to make a contribution on the topic of stamps and leather.
I work with leather occasionally. Stamping leather is a fairly old, if not archaic, technique. If you have a laser (for working with leather, I recommend a two-diode laser, at least 10 W total), in addition to cutting the pieces of your project, you can engrave all kinds of images into the leather.
Leather is a fairly diverse material in terms of behavior, as it can come from different animals with different characteristics. There are also different tanning techniques (chrome, vegetable, and smoked), but the main characteristic to consider when printing images on it is moisture. Very dry leather is not ideal for making leather goods, as it will crack, break, and damage the leather item (wallet, belt, jacket, purse, etc.). To make leather goods, the leather must have a certain moisture content, which can vary between 10% and 25%, and which requires maintenance with products that nourish the leather (horse grease, for example; there are also other more technical and specific products depending on the type of tanning and leather) if we want the leather item to last. Therefore, the images we engrave on the leather must be done with low laser light intensity. They must be light scratches, just enough so that the images are visible and do not break the leather due to overdrying it with the laser light.
Humidity is an obstacle to printing images on leather and limits grayscale. Although not all projects require grayscale (for example, text and spot colors in general, although with a laser, we can only use a single spot color), there is software like LightBurn that has tools to convert grayscale images into engravings. Grayscale is imitated with an artistic technique called âPointillism.â (Itâs an artistic movement based on making dots on paper or canvas, primarily of a single color. The more dots are close together, the darker a shadow appears, and the greater the distance between them, the lighter the shadow will be.) This engraving technique helps overcome the difficulty of creating grayscale images with the leatherâs humidity.
The only drawback to working with leather with a laser is the unpleasant odor, but we can minimize it by using lasers encapsulated in boxes, with smoke extraction systems to extract the smoke to the outside, or even passing it through a carbon filter first.
In short, itâs much cheaper and offers many more creative possibilities to engrave leather with a laser rather than using stamps.
I have edited the publication again because I have realized that perhaps fundamental information was missing for safety when working with leather. Without further ado, I am attaching the link to a publication on the subject of safety. This has been generated with artificial intelligence, with ChatGPT. I believe it can enlighten you positively.
Could not find âBoundBoxâ label
Need a bit more context to be able to be helpful. Can you share your current FCStd and a screenshot of the change you are trying to make to it?
What version of FreeCAD do you have?
Version 1.0
ShapeString.Shape.BoundBox.Xlength + 10
I did make this with a development build of FreeCAD. I thought that this ShapeString feature was part of FreeCAD 1.0, Iâm sorry!
Mesh Workbench ?
I didnât use the Mesh workbench, no.
@artesanowallets Iâve done quite a bit of engraving/branding leather using my diode lasers. And yes, itâs quite a fun way to personalise stuff. With a bit of practice I was able to do images (dithered) and very fine text etcâŚ
But Stamping (the topic of this thread) is different; while a laser can only engrave/burn the material, stamps can do quite a bit moreâŚ
Ink stamps are fast and, unlike engraving, can come in many colors. You can even do basic lithography with sets of stamps to build coloured designs.
But I was actually discussing using stamps to emboss 3d decoration in leather, using two part stamps (like the example @Oscar showed).
