Looking for a low profile header option for an Arduino Nano. I picked up a version with no pins to accomplish this. I’m not opposed to soldering it to a PCB, but I’d prefer to have the option to remove the Arduino just in case it needs to be replaced.
Do the pins have a edge indent/connector like this?:
This is a ‘castellated’ connector, and I couldnt see any pre-made connectors for them (they are getting popular these days, I’s hoped to find premade connectors…)
I did, however, see this:
https://hackaday.com/2022/03/07/flexypins-might-help-with-those-pesky-castellated-modules/
I recently had the same challenge on a handheld project. I could not find pin-socket configurations that would fit into a thin handheld case.
The problem with any kind of sub-module removal is that you cannot unsolder two entire rows at one time.
I have seen a method where a large copper wire is soldered to the entire row so that all the pins will come loose at one time. https://youtu.be/Vou2xlJkuoU?si=kDREwgvr1rbJ4kDl
I have used this method on a single row but using it on a dual row module seems more of a challenge. You would have to run the copper wire around all the pins and this would seem to require a lot of heat.
So I ended up soldering in the module(s) with a small space between the module and the motherboard PCB. The module is held off the motherboard while soldering with a small spacer. Of course, this only works is you have enough room to space the module off the motherboard.
This leaves enough room to cut the pins [between the module and pcb] and remove the module from the motherboard. I have done it once and it works but destroyed the module. It was bad anyway. Once the module is cut loose I heat and pull the pins from the motherboard using a needle nose pliers.
If there is enough room under the motherboard you can leave the pins sticking out long enough to heat and grab each pin and pull them out of the motherboard and the module. Requires more heat than I would like.
I use a turned pin header strip and a 40 pin DIL socket. There are a few unused pins on the socket that I can use for experimenting with say timing components.
Peter.
Manufacturer: | SAMTEC |
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Manufacturer Part No: | SIB-110-02-F-S-LC |
This is called a ‘Clipzin’ socket. for caselated edge connections. They are only available in UK…
I have been looking into these for awhile because I like using the Pi Pico2040 and the Pi Zero for my SBC’s and MCU’s. But for now I’m gonna stick with Don’s way of standing the MCU off of the proto board… kudos to you Don, Really nice looking project board!
I found them on Digikey I did not try to buy but they loaded in my cart.
If this works I would consider shifting to castelated processors like the new nano.
I found a model for this part in EasyEDA.
After adding it to a board I am not yet sure how these work.
Is it tessellated or castellated? I see the first on the Arduino site and the second used by PCB manufacturers.
Update: found an article about “clipzin”. Indeed these are available from Farnell but not in the US. They are also offered by EDAC but I don’t think in the US.
The part # |Manufacturer Part No:|SIB-110-02-F-S-LC| does not look like the clipzin?
Flexypins is another method I tripped over. This provides a plug for a castellated module but it doesn’t have a profile lower than a socket.
Flexypins in stock:
OMG thank you for sharing this type of component. I had no idea that they existed and I’ve needed them for years!