Looks like a good upgrade to my i3 which has MDF board with printed y bearing zip tied together. Can’t find much review about this alu carriage. does anyone has any experience with this one? thx
http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Anodized-Carriage-3D-Printer/dp/B00THZJHJY%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAIPSMWUGTSB47RRHA%26tag%3D3drealityorg-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB00THZJHJY
That looks way too heavy.
yes it will be heavier than the MDF setup I currently have but I was hoping I the trade off I get would be a sturdier build and eliminating flex
There are some that have more material cutout that would be stiff enough, and lighter. Take a look at the prusa i3 Carriage.
Those bearing blocks are extremely heavy, and there is way more material then needed.
That’s way over built. Less is more on the Y sled. Look into aluminum composite sign board. I recommend finding some where local (makershop) to mill it for you. I cobbled mine together with a hole saw and a router. It’s ugly but very functional. There are plans available online, or you can design your own like I did.
thx all for chiming in I decided to get it anyway. I think what will happen is that I will need to slow down my print speed to make up for the weight. hopefully I get zero flexing issue and reliable consistency.
@Step_Cia You’ll be fine with that bed plate. I’ve cut almost a couple thousand i3 aluminum frames so far and they work well. It’s bit different than the regular i3 frame but it won’t be an issue. I don’t see a need to change the print speed. I can do 70-80 mm/s with an i3 and 100-120 on an MM2 variant using a larger bed. It’s still not as heavy as some of the steel variants kicking around or steel plates that I’ve prototyped.
Commenting about the price, it may seem expensive but even using a mill in low batch can be more than you would think. Waterjet even more. Using a saw, drill and hole saw is going to be a good DIY way to make this bed.