I am trying to choose between the Longmill MK2.5 (12x30 model) and the Genmitsu 4040 PRO MAX for just dipping my toes into the CNC woodworking hobby.
The Longmill seems to be lacking some of the features out of the box, like limit switches and 4th axis upgradeability, but has a bigger base area(right at the limit of what I would want for now for size.
I was wondering if anyone had experience with both of these (or either of them if something really stands out).
I am leaning towards the Genmitsu because of the features, but I like the size of the Longmill(12x30 model) a bit more.
To start I am just looking to make some signs and then maybe at some point in the future a little bit more detailed carving but I may upgrade by that time to a different machine. This is just basically for the first year so I can learn a bit as a hobby.
I’ve had a 3D printer for a few years now and have been using Fusion 3D for the most part and I’m just trying to kind of step into a different branch
Limit switches matter so much less for a router than for a 3D printer. My first revision didn’t even have them. Just find the stock, zero out the workspace, and work from there.
I just took a look at the longmill MK2.5. It appears that it does have limit sensors which are supposed to be better that limit switches as far as durability as they never touch the oncoming axis plate, whereas a limit switch does touch the oncoming plate..
I then took a look at the Genmitsu 4040 PRO Max. and it has limit switches on all axis’.
So, for opinion sake only.. I don’t like the genmitsu’s guide rail system on the X-axis due to its size. Your router is going to be driven around the material with just the last 1/16” to 1/2’ of the tip cutting your part. The force of the dual Y axis motors and X axis motor pushing the tool around will cause deflection at the connection with the Z axis mount. Genmitsu recently changed to an extrusion incorporated guide rail to over come the forces. Unless they have beefed up the rail block it is still going to deflect a lot.
But on the other hand, the Longmill uses four guide wheels per axis, which in my opinion is much worse than the genmitsu. You will have those same forces on the edge of those guide wheels..
I have a Genmitsu PROver 4030 and it’s a little more but it’s worth more.. Also depending on your Abilities and desires as far as upgrades is concerned Genmitsu has a lot of upgrades you can use to change your machine to ave a 1000mm x 1000mm table size..
I have the 4040 Pro Max (sort of), I was looking at the Pro Max plus the upgraded XZ extension, but the cost was getting up there, I was going to build my own machine, but after pricing out all the parts, it worked out to be cheaper to just buy a machine’.
I ended up getting a 4040 Pro and the upgraded XZ extension, so I now have a “6040Pro Max” and it ended up costing me about the same as a 4040 Pro Max (everything was on sale at the time), eventually I will get the Y extension kit and make it a 6060.
I love the machine, the stock spindle was a bit of a joke, but with a trim router on it, this thing is a beast.
The upgraded XZ gantry has supported rails on the X and linear rails on the Z, so there is virtually no flex in the machine, even when pushing it, I thought the nema17’s would be be a weak point, but they power through everything I have thrown at it, even aluminum.
I am still learning the machine, but eventually I would like to try carving out some guitar bodies.
If you just want something to learn the ropes on, I would just go for the 4040 Pro, as long as you don’t try pushing it to hard, it is a capable machine, then when you are ready you can always upgrade it to a 6060 Pro Max!
Just a few thoughts. I don’t own either of these machines, but from what I see in the hobby cnc revolution, is that square linear block rails and ball screws are now kind of the current direction machines are heading.
My cnc travels involve these. I built my own from hardware parts roughly 2 decades ago. Next came a barebones K2 2515 (I think it was) with unsupported linear rods, a defunct startup machine called PCNCautomation, with timing belt drive and inferior linear guides, a Shapeoko 2 with Vee wheels upgraded along the way to the last iteration of X-Carve with aftermarket upgrades, and lastly my current work in progress, an OpenBuilds (now out of business) 600 x 1000 Cbeam machine.
The X carve with its upgrades has been a decent machine for what I do, which is mostly guitar related musical instruments. I like the modularity aspect of making your own machine. I’d be wary of proprietary parts that you can’t replace off the shelf. CNC machine companies come and go, and so do their designs. If it were me, I’d take a look at CNC4 Newbies products. I have a z axis from them, and it is a beauty.
It’s been said that proximity switches are a plus over mechanical switches, but I prefer knowing that the pull off is going to be the same though mechanical means.
The saying " buy your second machine first", really applies in my case and it is a good thing to think about. Looking at your two choices, They are pretty comparable but have things that would keep me from buying either.
I’ve been using a trim router for most of my machines, the K2 accepted a full size router which could take .5 dia bits. I don’t want the hassle of water-cooled spindles, so my next adventure will be a fairly large air cooled one, replacing wheels with square linear guides. All these things add a lot of weight, and the structural members have to handle it.
Good luck in your venture. On my open builds machine, parts are now available from other vendors on the internet.