Lady's and gentlemen, I present to you my new hotend! As of yet untested,

Lady’s and gentlemen, I present to you my new hotend! As of yet untested, but will be soon.

This uses x2 @E3D-Online v6 heater blocks, nozzles, kraken heat breaks, and my Hydra heatsink. HAIL HYDRA! This is my answer to all of the lost space from using traditional dual hotend setups. But for those not needing, or not ready for the Kraken. There is a cut that I have not made yet. This will be the heat break clamp. It is the same concept for the v6 heater cartridge clamp. 1x M3 screw per hotend. Level the bed with only one hotend installed then insert the other one loose. Home. Then put a feeler gauge under it (piece of paper or what you used to level the bed. ) then tighten. Done! I made this with a drill press, vise, hacksaw, calipers (for measuring and etching cut lines), a wood saw to widen the cuts, and a needle file to clean the cuts. It’s made from 1x1 aluminum square stock cut 1 ⅛" long. It will have active cooling from 1 or 2 fans. Not sure yet if it needs 2. I have designs for. 3mm also and for some other experimental cooling techniques.

@D_Rob gnarly idea man! I like it! Do post how testing goes, let me know if you need parts or help.

Someone get this man a mill! And a Lathe!

I have a Taig lathe. Out of order. Yes someone please give me a mill lol! Based on this imagine what I could do with some tools. But this is just the prototype. If it works as expected I will outsource production and sell them. I posted the how to pics so others can build and test while I work out the kinks. I’m working on going to college and still working full time. So time is short until school starts. Then i can get a part time job. Gi Bill will handle the rest. Sucks being a 31yo freshman lol! But EE here I come.

looks great, too bad I decided to go with 3mm when I started to build my printer. Kraken is only for 1.75 as far as I could see. Although 3mm should be possible with m6 threads in the block and “regular” e3dv6 heat pipes.

I have plans for a 3mm heat break and a SW file for one. Should be easy to lathe. There is also a heat sink already designed.

Its ok if i make one?

@D_Rob Yay education! I was 48, and about to retire from the USAF when I finally finished my Bachelor’s degree. Well worth it!

@Nicolas_Arias of course

@D_Rob did my BSME at 30 working full time with a family. Admire anyone who takes on this challenge! Noted, it took me 7 years with life as a background. It will not be the easiest thing, but completely worth it.

@Daniel_F threads are a no go. Makes leveling with heater blocks impossible.

I’d like to note to those with a band saw that a stop plate for depth of cuts and some distance jigs of some sort would make short work of this. I like this design because you don’t have to have a mill. Yes one is nice, but not necessary

It’s all about using what you’ve got, especially if you’re tool constrained.

@Tim_Rastall father of ingentis this is designed with our builds in mind so… what do you think?

I like it. Principal concerns would be the heatsinks ability to dissipate. A single v6 sink has way way more surface area than this one, and even they seem to struggle to keep the break cool enough to prevent pla sticking. Suggest you put a thermistor hole right between the heat break holes to see what sort of temp you get at the bottom of the block. Aggressive cooling and a duct to push air over the breaks could be enough to overcome this though.

@Tim_Rastall I plan on having 2x 30mm fans on opposite sides I just havent decided whether both face in, both out or 1 in and 1 out. Both in may interfere with air current. Both out may draw enough air in between them and across and out. 1 in 1 out (blowing the same direction will increase flow but how much? these things i need to test I have an extra ramps so will build a test rig before it ever mounts to a printer