Hi everyone , Im new here and found you while trying to solve an issue with my K40
All was fine one day and then the next I was having trouble cutting 3mm plywood
could cut it easy with 3 passes now it takes 5 or 6. , now the strange bit
I was using it at 40% but now anything over 30% and the laser seams to loose power. I tested it by stepping up the power 10% at a time and anything over 80% and the beam seems to flicker on and of.
I have stripped the machine clean everything reassemble it and realigned everything and still the same.
Anyone had anything like this or any ideas as to a cause
ran it pretty hard at first when trying to work out what was the best settings
using distilled water and using ice packs to keep the temps down
usually running between 16 and 20 degrees
I did once forget to put the ice packs in and the temp do go over 30 and that was for maybe 30 minutes before i noticed.
LPS was what I was thinking as increase power demand seems to increase the issue
ok I tried the laser again tonight , at 30% it cuts but takes more than 10 passes to cut 3mm plywood , if I turn the power to 40% it looks like the laser keeps flickering on and off but it continues to follow the pattern, at 35% it cuts but still flickers on and off but if I change the power in any way or amount it starts again for a few minutes and goes off again , change power and back on.
It still sounds like your LPS is not putting out full power.
The attached diagram shows how to connect a DVM to measure the current in the tube.
Summary of the measurement
The tube’s anode is connected to the HV side of the LPS (stay away from this end)
The tubes cathode (the other end of the tube) is connected to ground at the LPS.
The cathode wire is typically green and connects to the FG pin on the left-most connector of the LPS.
We are going to put the DVM in series with the cathode side of the tube and ground and measure mA.
Setup the measurement
Disconnect the green wire at the LPS and connect it to the plug labeled mA on the front of the meter.
Connect a lead from the COM plug on the meter back to the place where the green wire was connected on the LPS. This should be FG on the leftmost connector of the LPS.
Set the dial on the meter to the DC amp scale (has an A with a dotted line under it).
The meter should read the cathode current in milliamps typically between 0 and 30.
The LPS seems to be putting out more than enough power.
The % power vs current is pretty linear meaning it isn’t shorting or arching-over as the demand increases.
checked all alignment including the tube itself , checked gantry square and all ok
it worked fine the day after running it hot but not the day after that.