I’ve found #IGentuS’ achilles heel. It can’t print phone cases. ?
PLA, 210 degrees (starts to starve below 205), Heated or unheated bed, new fan+shroud, fast or slow. Tried 2 mm and 4.5 mm retract
It lays down the back, PERFECTLY…smooth, great infill, just gorgeous.
Then when printing the walls, the melt zone creeps up and the PLA clogs.
Which is unfortunate, because the PLA has a lustre my current selection of ABS does not have. 
@Sanjay_Mortimer suggestions?
E3D v5 or V6?
V5
Try re seasoning the hotend with canola
That should help some, and try dropping the temp a few degrees and add a larger fan
I say just get a v6. I still fight V5 with pla. I was thinking of modifying mine with the new heater block and drilling out the heat sink to run the Teflon down to the heat break like the v6. I have also heard the new nossle inside profile is better.
What @Eclsnowman says is correct, a simple solution would be to try a v6 nozzle.
I hate asking these questions on the way out the door. I can’t experiment for another 7 hours, if at all today.
This is the first I’ve heard of the v5 having PLA problems…it just seems odd that it’s doing this on what is effectively an odd sized calibration cube.
That’s why people say season them. Most early all metal hotends have pla woes. I have a metal magma that is incapable of printing pla. that is why my Mendel only prints abs. Pla is a complex sugar based plastic. Made from corn. Seasoning a metal hotend lubricates the inside of the heat break. Much like buttering a bowl for caramel or seasoning a skillet. When the plastic doesn’t stick to the tube it is freer to flow. This is why Teflon tubes liners are common. E3d also goes through great lengths to polish the insides of the heat break.
Retraction is what worked with my E3Dv5 hot end. Reduce speed of retraction. Play with distance maybe use shorter.
.5 retract, 240C, different PLA, Success!
Awesome!
try building an enclosure for you printer for better temp control
Reports of V5 problems with PLA are out there, particularly with Bowden setups. It took reading the user experiences on forums and chats to know about it.
This thread has it all… http://forum.e3d-online.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=65
Stick a Chinese guy on the end, he’ll fix it up in no time
(Wish I could add a photo here without starting a new thread.)
The problem is very much retraction. The Taz Octopus printed awesomely well (a print my delta could never accomplish)…it’s curious how there are certain kinds of prints (the Owl on the Log is another example) that just print really well, but completely avoid things printers can have issues with.
https://plus.google.com/u/0/100827274652904341735/posts/GUcZag7XoAe
This may be a silly question and I don’t use PLA myself, but are you using a minimum layer time setting (which you would probably use for ABS) on a PLA print and therefore giving the PLA more time to heat up? If you are using a minimum time setting, I would suggest disabling that for PLA or allowing for more time per layer or printing more items so that you have more area to print on for each layer height.
Entirely possible, @NathanielStenzel , There’s printing, printing well, then there’s printing well where you’ve covered all the corner cases and never have a printing failure.
I’m far from reaching that last one. 
I successfully printed my iPhone case, I’m happy with the result, but wish I’d had a glass build plate so the iridescent filament was iridescent on the bottom, instead of the matte surface you get with blue tape…but I don’t want it so bad that I’m willing to re-calibrate the change in Z that a thin sheet of glass would necessitate.
