I’ve been having problems with my parts sticking extremely well to my Kapton + ABS solution(juice) on the bed to the point where I sometimes break the glass plates trying to get big pieces off with a pen knife, but without the ABS solution they don’t stick well at all. I apply a bit of ABS juice to the glass/Kapton surface then wipe it down with an acetone dampened cloth, leaving just a foggy layer.
Also when the parts do stick, the stress is so great that they begin to pull up the Kapton tape at the end of long pieces. (Glass plate de-greased before Kapton applied, tape burnished to surface, 115C print bed temp/245c first layer/230 rest of print, black MakerFarm 3mm ABS) I’ve tried printing to raw Kapton, raw glass, glass with hairspray and Kapton with hairspray with no real success.
I was ordering some Kapton tape the other day and noticed you can get it with acrylic or silicone adhesive I believe my current tape has a silicone adhesive. I also ordered a small roll in 2 mil thickness to see if it was more heat resistant and order some PET tape also available with acrylic & silicone adhesive to try.
While waiting for the tape I’ve tried a 3mm sheet of brushed aluminum as the print surface. I soaked and scrubbed it down with Simple Green to de-grease it and then put some ABS solution on it an printed with pretty good results. The first layer and brim wasn’t even pushed that hard into the surface but I need to try it on a longer (dimensionally) print to see if it will prevent the part from peeling off the HPB during the print.
I’m also curious about anodizing a piece of aluminum and seeing if, instead of soaking it in an organic dye and sealing the piece with nickle acetate, there is some kind polymer that would be able to infiltrate the small pores of an unsealed anodized surface and bond well to the aluminum. Maybe other surface preparations such as a sodium hydroxide etch without the anodizing step would be useful to enhance the surface for stick.