I'm researching MK3 aluminum heat bed and thinking switching to it from MK2.

3D Printing
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1

I’m researching MK3 aluminum heat bed and thinking switching to it from MK2. One thing I’m finding it confusing is some MK3 has hole in the center for the thermistor and the hole is all the way through the finish surface… how can one print directly on this aluminum surface if there’s hole there?

I also found a version that doesn’t have any hole in the middle but this is harder to find on internet so I’m not sure if what I’m looking is official… would appreciate any insight or comment to this.

2

I know that is one of the option to put glass on top of it. But I’m going after direct print on top of aluminum plate. So to see this hole in the middle baffles my mind…

3

You might still need a glass plate. If the aluminum is not thick enough it will deform with heat and provide an uneven surface. The glass will remain stable.

4

So just mill yourself up a top plate if that’s what your going for.

5

Why don’t you try a PEI coated Aluminium print bed? Or Buildtak if you want to? I mean, if you want to buy new stuff anyways, why don’t you go for the good stuff? It’s so convenient not to coat filthy stuff before every printjob…

6

@Rene_Jurack How good is this Buidtak, good idea for @Step_Cia heated bed.

7

I have no personal experience with Buildtak, just read many many good experiences from other users. My personal favorite is the PEI-coated-Alu-printbed. I don’t know the english name for it, AFAIK a german reprap.org-user began to made them around 2013 and they QUICKLY became the standard for every good new printer and now are sold in nearly every reprap-online-shop in germany. Like this: http://r.ebay.com/iZlvxr in combination with a better heater like some of these: http://r.ebay.com/uWzzuI or these: https://goo.gl/pyxkrL

8

Careful with that mk3 bed. The through holes for the wire strain relief aren’t insulated so if any wires touch the aluminum your gonna blow your board @Chad_Bennett ​

9

As many have said before, the PCB heater will bow quite a bit when heating, so leveling will be a pain, if not impossible; IMHO, your best bet would be some borosilicate glass or some aluminum plate, for a flatter and removable print surface