I’m going to try printing with a 0.2mm airbrush-nozzle. Right now, I’m still not quite sure what would be the best / most practical way to mount it? I have an M1.7 and an M1.8 tap and matching drills. Should I just buy a 1.4mm nozzle and screw the little nozzle right in the tip? I have no lathe… Any tips?
wtf… just get a cheap nozzle on ebay
@marc_kerger I’m not exactly sure what your suggestion is. Buying the 1.4mm one, like i already planned to do or do you meant to buy a 0.2 nozzle? If it is the latter one, I disagree. I need the long tiny tip.
Look at the Merlin Hot end. It uses airbrush nozzles. Might be easiest for you just to order a merlin heater block.
http://reprap.org/wiki/Merlin_Hotend
ok i dont know what you are trying to do… but that assembly of screwing a nozzle in a nozzle sounds weird. watch out that it gets hot enough, that makes some long tube of metal that needs to get hot… I bought real nozzles that didnt even get hot enough because too much mass.
@Taylor_Landry I don’t want to use a peek-hotend. But with the merlin, the nozzle is not screwed in the heaterblock, but in the heatbreak instead. Where do I get this part? (europe)
The way i use it in the Merlin nozzle it gets easily hot enough. You need to screw it in a brass element to transfer the heat. Get rid of the o ring though. Check out my website http://merlin-hotend.de to see how i used it. 0.2 is very tight, prepare for slow prints, the quality you get can be worth it though 
@Rene_Jurack it is not screwed in the heatbreak, which is the peek part, but a small brass part that transfers the heat from the block to the nozzle.
@Bjorn_Marl Yeah, I figured that out reading the schematics. I want to use my e3d-v6 body for this, and I don’t want a peek-hotend like the merlin. So I have to
mount the nozzle somehow.
@marc_kerger mass is not the problem. Surface area is.
You could get that brass fitting and install it on a 3mm E3D v6 heat sink… otherwise you’ll need to do some more drilling/tapping to make it all work.
You don’t need a lathe. You just need access to a drill press and self centering vise and the appropriate sized taps. Making an adapter from an existing hot end is probably going to be dependent on the thread size of the air brush nozzle because that would affect the amount of remaining material between the heat block and the hot end. Another better way would be to make your own hot end block from a small piece of rectangular scrap aluminum by using the drill press to drill the appropriate holes for the heater core and the thermistor and nozzle and heatbreak.
If you have a drill press you can either make a nozzle from scratch or make an adapter, without one you’ll have a bit of trouble. The e3d nozzle is designed so the heatbreak seals against it. It might be better to make your own nozzle instead of trying to adapt one.
I wouldn’t use an airbrush nozzle, especially after watching this video of an E3D presentation at MidWest RepRap Festival from last year. It gave me a whole new level of appreciation of how important the inner shape of the nozzle is. Watch from 12:17 if you only want to listen to the section on nozzles.
@Jon_Stern
You might be surprised how well the shape of the Airbrush nozzle works for 3D printing.
@Jon_Stern @Bjorn_Marl I watched the video and they are saying exactly this 
But I doubt that their claim of 60° is the real reason for that angle. I think, it’s because it is a common angle in tools 
But I am not afraid of it “not working” - the merlin shows proof. Just looking for a simple and easy method to mount this little fucker