im frustrated... i just stoped the 15th fairured Print with my first original v6

a got all parts from e3d except the Radiator, with i milled myself i would say it is close enough (i mean it has alot of surface for cooling.) and jep they ar pretty damaged from lying in the scrap bin… but the Treads ar fine m7x1 undamaged
the venturi is a good hint, i didnt thougt about that, but in Pronterface i cant see any temperature change if i usw 8V or 14V for the fan, … and i dont have a part cooling fan yet (with could cool down the heater block) (and

could it be that the Molten plastic presses around the (quite small) fillament as i am Printing with 40-60mm/s at a 0.4mm nozzle, earlyer the filament would stop abouve the nozzle on the ptfe liner now ther is the smooth heatbreak with a inner bore of ?1.8?) so 0.1mm gap around the filament to crawl up to the cold side, but actually that should not matter am i right? the melt zone is always partially in the “transition zone”

That Bowden fitting doesn’t look like a legit 1.75mm e3d.

whers the diffrence? ther from my truck and work like a charm. you have to tension them so no backlash is there but thats not a big deal

I wonder if molten plastic is getting in a crevice between the heater block and the PTFE liner.

By my understanding, the power of the authentic E3D hotend is not in the heater block itself but more in the fitting between the various parts. If it is not all authentic E3D from nozzle to fins then the value is diminished because the fit is diminished. They are always making claims of high quality craftsmanship. I personally will probably never experience it due to my frugal nature.

You never did say if there was a cooling fan for the controller board.

i do have a fan over the drivers, good 160mm arctic fan and the drivers are in spi so overtemp would be reported
i think it is the Filament i sadly only have any bamboo left so i will try that and pack the PLA in the oven over night, maybe it is to moist and the e3d just is more… “delicate” to this problem

The most important parts of the E3Dv6 hot end are the HEAT BREAK and the HEATSINK. The hot block and nozzle are completely replaceable, but the heat break and heatsink are critical and swapping either out with non-genuine parts can cause problems.

You say it’s an authentic e3d but the Bowden fitting is not authentic, which means the aluminum heatsink isn’t authentic.
Many of the jams and failures happen in the transition zone from the ptfe tube to the heatbreak tube that leads to the heater, or in the heatbreak tube itself. PLA is especially prone to issues because it sticks to metal and adheres to it causing clogging or extra friction.
A good transition zone is critical to prevent clogging. Cheap clones put the PTFE tube right at the transition, however PTFE isn’t made to handle this heat for extended periods of time. It breaks down or softens, causing a clog.
The e3d attempts to alleviate this by using an all metal transition zone. This requires good thermal conductivity between the heatbreak and the heatsink. E3d provides thermal grease for this. Poor machining and contact between the two can make it worse.
The E3D still has issues because this heatbreak is all metal. The softened PLA will adhere to the walls of the heatbreak either by retraction or heat creep. A few things to try, reduce the amount of retraction. Make sure the heatsink fan is always on if the heater is above 50c. Never pull PLA out of the hotend when its hot or molten. It’s better to cut it and push it through. It might help to use a sponge or wipe that deposits a very small amount of oil in the filament. The amount of oil should be miniscule, invisible. It will prevent the filament from sticking.

i can try the Thermal grease, if i get some, the Heatsink is for my understanding not too critical, on a mechanical side. the Heatbreak is the expensive and importend part. why i got it from e3d . but: should or should the heatbrak be influenced by the fan or not? in my design the fan does not come close to the Hot side, and there is nearly no moving Air at the Heatbreak, (testet with some smoke)?

@Este_ban_S the heatsink needs very good thermal contact with the heat break. So quality tapped M7 threads — concentric, low roughness, minimum initial drill size to get sharp threads, etc. Also you are supposed to cool the bottom fin of the heatsink to get maximum heat shedding from the bottom of the heat break M7 thread.

This sounds to me like 1 of 2 (or both) things:

  1. PTFE is not square cut and is leaving a gap inside the heatsink.
  2. The heatsink isn’t being cooled properly causing filament to melt and bulge.