im frustrated... i just stoped the 15th fairured Print with my first original v6

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(Este ban S) #1

im frustrated… i just stoped the 15th fairured Print with my first original #E3D v6 I cant get a good trasition zone it keeps jaming in the Heatbrek, i cleaned it i polished it i cranced up the fan to 14V i added a shim of paper between the heater and the coldend to decreas heat deflacting… it keeps Jaming
I used a "fake e3d with teflon liner bevor, like 3Years with about 10jams or so… no idea where to look for the problem. cheap filament? it is only 1.68mm but that used to work on the fake…

(Cameron Spiller) #2

Retracting too far?

(Nathaniel Stenzel) #3

Where did you buy it? Did it come with that blue fan duct with fan assembly?

(Nathaniel Stenzel) #4

Does the filament hiss or pop when printing? What temperature were you printing at?

(Este ban S) #5

Retraction is same as with fake 2mm (bowden setup)
Bought it directl from e3d the filament is dry ish… Not perfect but was no issue before

(Nathaniel Stenzel) #6

+thantik, spam reply above

(Gary Tolley - Grogyan) #7

Dust is the main culprit for jams. A simple bit of cloth wrapped around the filament with a clothes peg works really well to wipe away dust

(Nathaniel Stenzel) #8

There is a design for a filament cleaner that you put a piece of sponge in too.

(Jeff DeMaagd) #9

Did you tighten the nozzle at or above printing temperature? Did you apply the thermal grease on the upper threaded part of the heat break?

(Este ban S) #10

I never used a oiler or a sponge after i reqd how much the layerbounding is affected by that, but i can giv it a try the friction between metal and plastic is a different than the Teflon one

(Xiaojun Liu) #11

@Este_ban_S should post some pics to help us understand what‘s the problem

(Este ban S) #12

ou can see it starts with underextrution and filament grinding i than craced up t0 to 240! To soften the coplete meltzone it than spilled out and i turned tmp down to 200 ( what still is over my usual 195) missing/deleted image from Google+

(Xiaojun Liu) #13

and pics of the printhead part?

(Este ban S) #14

I am currently cleaning it so i cant show you the cloged part. Can the diameter of 1.7 to 1.68mm be the problem? I used the same.filaament before…missing/deleted image from Google+

(Nathaniel Stenzel) #15

More pictures of the hotend and fan assemblies? What is with this big cooling fan with no apparent ducting? If that cools your heater block, it will mess stuff up.

(Nathaniel Stenzel) #16

Does your controller board that you populated yourself have a cooling fan? If not, can the tcm whatevers handle the heat they produce? Some stepper drivers will temporarily shut down or maybe fry after they get hot. Trust me when I say that fried stepper drivers are no fun.

(Este ban S) #17

it has goog cooling (200mm super silent fan) and spi does not report any overtemp.
the 40mm Fan is completly blowing over the cold end it is a bit overexposed, i ty with closed windows…

(Este ban S) #18

The fan is tunnd around the cooling block, the last " fin" of the cooler is hold in place by wome plastic witch gives for a extremely sturdy design as it is hold in place on both endsmissing/deleted image from Google+

(Nathaniel Stenzel) #19

Is there a barrier to avoid the breeze from the big fan from going down? I thought the E3D hotends came with a ducted fan.

(Nathaniel Stenzel) #20

Enough airflow will suck other air around it and that includes the air around your heating block and what looks like a side mounted thermistor. Cool the heating block and place your hand there and then turn on the cooling fan. You should not feel any hint of a breeze.
It seems odd to me that you say that is an authentic E3D hotend. The cooling fins are all dinged up.
If it is an imitation E3D hotend, did you remove the burs from the inside? Cheap chinese work may totally exclude the deburring process.
Did you do a cold pull lately?