Im building an Ultimaker Original Plus and added the dual extruder kit.
That’s the problem. The studded bolts that come with the plus are 62mm not long enough for the extra layer in the dual extruder. Anyone have the real length in the studded bolts? (Not that any would be available here.)
Another dual extruder oddity: one amplifier and clear mount for on top of the gantry comes with the kit. The plus comes with the thermocouple on a
Anyone have a dual extruder on a plus?
The dual upgrade kit is not really compatible with the plus machine. Only with the classic original.
You can get it to work, but you’ll need some extra parts (extra pt100 and the proper bolts). And after that you won’t be able to use the heated bed and the experimental dual hotend at the same time, as the power-supply will brown-out and shut off.
@Daid_Braam Thanks for the info. I better tell Makershed that they are incompatible.
It would be painful to pull out the gantry and rebuild as single extruder but I may be forced to.
Since I work 90% of time in PLA, I can run dual. Then again in 2016 I should have a Pallette (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/mosaic3d/the-palette-3d-printing-evolved/description) which should make dual extruders less needed except in cases where the temperature is wildly varying.
You should be able to remove the 2nd hotend without taking the gantry apart.
But if you want to hack it to work. The bolts an be an easy fix. Most DIY shops should have 3mm threaded rods that you could use. And makershed most likely will have spare PT100’s (part nr 1185)
I left the 2nd head in original plus gantry. The new electronic include a connector for 2nd extruder! Now I need a long cable from PT100 amplifier board to the electrocnics. Oh and some nylon M3x12 bolts - none were in the (US) kit.
With the plus electronics (white board) you don’t need the amplifier board. That’s only for the old (green) electronics. But you do need a new temperature sensor. The old electronics (with amplifier board) used a thermocouple. But the new board (white) only supports PT100 temperature sensors.
@Daid_Braam
Just got this “answer” from Ultimaker support - looks like dual extrusion is forbidden and may have voided my warranty even without powering it up. I’m peeved with Makershed for listing dual extruders as a VALUE ADD ON on the same page with Ultimaker.
Hi Alan,
Ive done some research and found that the board used in the UMO+ cannot support the dual extrusion kit.
the UMO+'s board is identical to the UM2.
the UM2 used 25w heaters while the UMO and O+ uses 40w heaters.
The UM2 board cannot support two 40w heaters and the heated build plate.
Any damage caused to the machine while attempting to install the dual extrusion kit will not be covered under warranty
We apologize for any inconvenience this might have caused you.
–
support@fbrc8.com
Ultimaker’s Official Assembly and Support Partner for North America, fbrc8 LLC
Well, that’s the official answer (bit more corporately formulated then I would like, but that’s not in my hands). After all, that’s what I started with “dual extrusion for the UMO+ isn’t really supported”.
So it’s up to you if you want to risk it or not. I’m just from main UM R&D. As far as I know nothing can go horribly wrong. But having the heated bed and 2 heaters on at the same time will shut the machine off for sure.
(With an answer like that, you could still complain about the missing bolts, after all, that’s their mistake)
Also, on dual on it self, the main problem I had with it on my home machine was that the 2nd nozzle would rip the print of the printer bed when I was making single extrusion prints. So I had dual and actually removed it later on.
The 2nd head ripping things up I’ve seen before. I suggested to HyRel3d retracting the idle heads 0.5mm. I guess the real solution for me will be the Palette sometime next year.
So far this UO+ is a super reliable work horse. Only glitch - the Z stop slipped. Horrid to adjust but the community has several better adjusters. I’ve printed one but not attached it yet.
I’ve put the extruder drive on a sound deadening clip from Scott Mayson.
Printing a 6" pulley for a Gocupi right now.
@Daid_Braam fbrc8 claims that the front panel controller is no longer made with Nylon bolts. That 10 mm metal bolts should,be used. If so the PDF should be undated.
Then they are wrong. We switched to nylon a while back to prevent potential damage from ESD. (Just checked the latest version of the BOM to be sure, part numbers: 1540, 1541, 1542)
Most likely explanation: they still have older stock with the stainless steel bolts.
Thanks for your help Daid. I wrote FBRC8 and MakerShed. Makershed has pulled the dual extruder kit off the page with UO+ (yay no one else gets yanked around). FRBC8 closed ticket saying that use M3x10 metal bolts.
