I think this will work for the side (non-corner) mount.

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(John Davis) #1

I think this will work for the side (non-corner) mount. It will have M1.6 socket cap screws holding the top on so that I’ll be able to more easily remove the bed (@Simon_Day ).

(Simon Day) #2

@John_Davis nice :slight_smile:

This whole concept is really nice to see! Normally the heated bed levelling side of 3D printers is usually forgotten in the development side of things.

Can’t wait to see your designs in place and being tested :slight_smile:

(John Davis) #3

Thanks @Simon_Day , the reason for these exotic designs is the effort to get very precise action when these are wired as end stops so that the probing routine can generate maximum repeatability for the most precise automatic tram correction (“bed leveling”). The amount of milling involved has inspired me to finally wire up and learn to use the CNC capabilities of my Sherline lathe/mill, so there’s that.

(Simon Day) #4

@John_Davis Any chance you could video the process of your Sherline making your design as I’d like to look more in to a mill myself?

(John Davis) #5

@Simon_Day No problem. It may take a little while though as I have to get connectors for the TinyG to motor wiring and whatnot.

(Simon Day) #6

@John_Davis Not a problem, just tag me in :slight_smile:

(Jesse CreateThis) #7

I’d love to see more of this. Bed leveling is always a problem on my printrbot plus.

(John Davis) #8

@Jesse_CreateThis Thanks! With any luck I’ll have the first of the three mounts completed this weekend so I can install and test. I didn’t drawn in the wiring connections because I haven’t figured out exactly what they’ll look like, but if you haven’t been following this experiment to this point you should be aware these mounts will be wired as end stops for automatic tram correction.