I submit for your perusal.

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(Michael Scholtz) #1

I submit for your perusal. My latest print of my 3dOneP5 photos of extreme closeups of the latest print. It is the nasa wrench the layer height is 0.15mm this is still attached to the raft, and has had 0 cleanup. After the pics I removed it from the raft cleanly and with a small bit of pressure it turned without a problem.

(Michael Scholtz) #2

I only saw them when looking at the pics on the PC after. Frequency could due to the x and y axiz are geared differently so they have very different step counts, could that affect it, as the stepper needs to move faster/more in the y axis than the X. As for rhythmically the bowden its a 4mm od 2mm id tube but that bit of play may just be whats compressing the filament enough to do this, maybe I can try the lubrication techniques some use for filament.

(Michael Scholtz) #3

I use this gear http://netram.co.za/1838-filament-drive-gear.html its sharp and bites very well. But feed path may be the key here. the bearing on the extruder arm is grooved at about 2mm wide. that grove is cut by hand with a dremel and is not perfectly straight it does move sightly as the bearing goes round, but that’s over a distance for probably 3cm per rotation. could it be the marks in the filament from the gear. - I’m going to obsess about this all day now.

(Michael Scholtz) #4

That’s the y axiz that is geared with a belt. I’ll swap it out and see if it affects it.

(Michael Scholtz) #5

I had a printed pulley for extra torque for the y axiz. I swapped it with a aluminium one set thenstaps and am printing a test to check steps. Will check its all square and right steps and then reprint.

(Michael Scholtz) #6

This has been driving me crazy. I have changed the printed pulley to aluminum one. redone replaced other pulley that seemed a little off center ,the new one seems to do the same x-( checked steps tightened belts replaced idler bearing checked the head it tight checked the printer leveling. was about to start changing micro stepping, when I found this post. http://3dprintboard.com/archive/index.php/t-7987.html seems to be the closest to the problem Ive been having. his solution was to decrease acceleration. going to do that now and see how it affects the print. I would just like to thank +Peter van der Walt for pointing this out to me, I’m now examining ALL my prints with a magnifying glass.

(Michael Scholtz) #7

Do you know where I can get those plumbing fittings they use on the e3d head from locally. By bowden tube has a notch in and is held in place with a bolt, I try to make sure there is no pressure on the filament but what you saying does sound like that. I’ll do some test prints with acceleration and see. I’m not keen on lower it too much as remember from my 1st printer it meant print time increased significantly from estimated time.

(Michael Scholtz) #8

Thanks Ill look them up and be sure to get some brass nuts. I was actually thinking about this and thought a hobby shop that does (for some reason in my mind) trains may have something like this.

(Michael Scholtz) #9

OK Results of a whole day not doing my day job. The acceleration decrease made the wave on direction change go away. I also changed my spring tensioners to solid ones with cable ties. Available here - http://3done.co.za/groups/3d-things/documents/ I checked the feed path of the filament is smooth tried another fialmet role measuerd filament spools ( found it was 1.7 not 1.75). now printing the Rook I can see that inside radius look perfectly smooth but outer radius and straight edges still have that orange peel noise effect. still going to slice something with adjusted filament ( the rook was on the SD card) thing is all three my printers do this. so now I’m thinking maybe something in my firmware, they are all similar files and probably a fairly old version of marlin. Then adjusting micro stepping to either increase or decrease. And at that point I’m running out of answers. I even thought it was the internal scaffolding but the noise doesn’t match to internal fill points. Oh wait will try another slicer before I do the other stuff. I’d be most upset if that’s it…

(Michael Scholtz) #10

Use Cura 15.02.1 going to try slic3r now.

(Michael Scholtz) #11

So umm I sliced with slic3r and its such a nice slicer. If it had curas interface (moving previewing calculating time and cost) it would be a no brainer. I forgot about being able to change printers resolution and filament independently. Anyway sliced with it and my prints where smooooottthh and by the looks of it down to the external perimiter going at 1/2 the speed. Duplicated the settings for perimiter in cura and tested and behold it also worked quite well. Now going to slice and print benchy just to make sure im not mistaken and if that works ill do that socket wrench again for good measure.