I present to you the UL-T-SLOT MKIII,

I present to you the UL-T-SLOT MKIII, the top secret project I’ve been working on. Still have to hook up electronics and flash firmware. And finish the custom hotend I’m working on… (Hail Hydra!).

Woah. Ballscrew?

It seems adventurous enough. Any tests yet?

Sure looks wormy! :smiley:

Can’t wait to see some test videos on this puppy… everything is going to be spinning around ! :slight_smile:

that is a lot of leadscrew

Screws replacing both belts and smooth rods on the gantry, but still using smooth rods (which seems wise) on the z-axis? Expensive (I think), but interesting. Nice build!

Also, what’s the pitch on this? It seems like it needs to be a very high pitch in order to work at the speeds we typically need 3D printers to run at. Very beneficial though in terms of reduction of part count.

Oh, yeah, this is a SOLID work! On my printer will only the y-axis (23x46 cm heated bed, on a 20mm wider linear rail) moved with ballscrew…So many power reserves!
Your hot-end should have no problems with air resistance by high speed :wink:

@ThantiK yeah they are 1204 c5 ball screw’s. The set ran less than $300 for all 6

@Miguel_Sanchez no just finished the mechanics. Been super busy of late.

@D_Rob please keep us posted, it looks really great.

Congrats. Very cool looking. I am interested to see if using the screws for drive and rails introduces any artifacting.

@Eclsnowman I am too. One of the reasons I am trying this. These are c5 ground ball screws, not rolled, and there is no visible wobble when I travel the x or y via hand pulling the belt that keeps mirrored sides in tandem. There is one belt per axis. then the small drive belts from the x and y steppers. I wish I had some help figuring out 12v DC motors with the round optical encoders I salvaged from some 2d printers then I could bring back some speed. I also believe this should be study enough to carry a spindle (hint hint)

@D_Rob was it tough setting up the connection belt that joins the two sides? I couldn’t tell how you tensioned it since I assume it has to be a closed loop belt to function.

@Eclsnowman the plates were designed with belt length in mind and unlike the mk I Ul-T-Slot the corner brackets are two plates. They are more adjustable. I use a flat block on the top and sides to get them jigged into place. The small plate over laps the edge to create a stop for the larger one. And I can print them all for strength and faster print times.

After he switches to 220v…

@Shauki 44.44 steps/mm since there is a36t gt2 on the motor and 32t on the screws. So 13332steps/sec to achieve 300mm/sec. You tell me. I believe I can attain faster speeds if I learn the arcane secrets of 12 or 24v DC motors with the disc encoders like in a 2d printer. I already have some drill motors and opto sensors with the encoder discs. Just need the right documentation. Don’t have enough time to figure it myself. I’m busting my butt at a furniture store by day doing r and d for my second job at night and trying to promote my bosses kick starter for a pet toy I designed at work. Not looking good I’m kind of worried. But it is an awesome toy.

@D_Rob if you power steppers at higher voltage (24…30V) you’ll be able to achieve faster speeds just like that. DC motors require servo feedback and a different controller. Most 2d printer manufacturers use them now so I guess it can be done more cheaply, at least at large scale, but it seems not many people use DC motors in RepRap land. I do not know any cheap (as in pololu’s range) electronics for this but maybe other fellas do.

My system is using a modified for 24v Ultimaker 1.5.7 board