Yeah I had some bad PETG I could hear it “crackling” as the moisture boiled off and it printed very badly like serious under-extrusion.
So I tuned PID tuned the hotend and tested so didnt get much chance to run more then 3 tests. I tried 218C and it curled badly like 215C, 265C at 105C bed and got a tiny amount of curl off the glass, top curl just as bad as 240C. 270C and 110Cbed, no bed adhesion problems but the usual curl. I think by 270C we have reached as hot as is sensible. So 240~260C and a 110C bed (maybe 115C?) seems the best range to work in. I intend to try 100% cooling fan but single sided tonight to see if the side nearest the fan improves or not v the other.
So a Wanhao D6 as stock only has single sided cooling, the RHS (right hand side). As you can see the RH 2 corners came out very well. So Ive fitted my home grown LHS fan and I will re-run this at 100% part cooling fan. So its looking more positive with a lot of cooling, but I shouldn’t count my chickens before they are hatched. 245C~255C bed 110C+ with some high % of fan might work (30% didnt).
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Isnt it. I tried a second run with my fan installed on the LHS but I hadnt totally baked the HTPLA so it sagged and touched the build plate due the heat of the enclosure. Before I aborted the print (at about 2mm high) though I was getting a similar improvement on the left hand side I think but with signs of slight curl off the buildplate (115C bed temp) just starting. Anyway tonight I need to print a new LHS fan assembly and bake it properly in the oven at 90C. I suppose I’ve also assumed an enclosure is best as its “ABS” maybe its nothing like “real” ABS but a new unique filament. So once I have the LHS fan replaced I will try various fan speeds, say start at 80% fan and maybe even with no enclosure to see how it works out. Still at least I have some sort of envelope around 250C to explore now…
eSun ABS+ So 250C both sides 100% part fan 115C bed. Some curling off bed but the finish is good, now to fine tune. I will try less fan
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top view. You can see the slight issue up to 1mm layers or so, maybe bed too hot? 115C …hmmmm
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That looks great! However… what the heck do you have that requires 250C/115C??? That’s not much of an improvement over most “regular” ABS.
Its only $2 more a roll than regular eSun ABS but I got the ABS+ to try because its supposed to shrink a lot less so makes more accurate parts and its supposed to be stronger as I am making my second 3d printer, a D-bot. I am also making my own stormtrooper armour so if its stroner and more accurate it might be a good solution. Dis-advanatges are you cant smooth it in acetone steam bath it to smooth it nor glue it “as easily” so its an experiemnt. I tried 70% fan part its about the same or maybe curls slightly more but bed adhesion seemed to be better. Next I will try and compare 115c bed to 110c bed. I will also try no enclosure as I think 100% fan seemed better than 70% fan, maybe this stuff is nothing like “real” ABS. If it doesnt need an enclosure maybe its ideal for prusa 3i machines, worth a go. Otherwise for std ABS I am going to have to heat the enclosure I suspect and allow its temp to cool slowly not impossible using an arduino…
I am also going to pick up a roll of that no name ABS in white if I can, it printed really well in purple and was cheaper than anything else Ive seen.
Yeah… thanks for sharing your experiment! Supposedly ABS+ can smooth “a little bit” with acetone brushing. But that’s way too much trouble and lots of heat to push out ABS+ correctly.
Ive only had a wanhao D6 7months so I was hoping for more experienced people could help. Never mind bouncing ideas did help, thanks. So so far I am still at 250C and 100% fan seems essential and starting it very low like 0.5mm. trying 110C down from 115C currently.
I’m going to necropost this thread because it seems like the most on-topic.
I buy all my filament from MatterHackers and they constantly send me eSUN ABS+ instead of eSUN ABS. I get it replaced every time, but they often do not want a return. So I throw several boxes of ABS+ in the trash every other month.
I print everything in ABS and I found eSUN ABS the most suitable (a separate discussion). So, I tried to run ABS+ using the same settings. Results were very poor, that is why I continue to discard it every time MatterHackers screw up.
Plate adhesion is extremely poor. I use glue stick for ABS, but the only thing that has a chance with ABS+ is Prevailent T-80. This is a show-stopper for me because I don’t have the time to baby-sit prints. I need to start and move on. I don’t want to lose time on clearing failures either. I do 3 5-hour prints per printer every day. If one of them fails and I find out 20 minutes later, that means only 2 complete in the day.
Warping can be worse than ABS. By can I mean it is worse for parts that I want. Apparently it is worse when walls are thin enough. My parts made in ABS+ require a significant rework with either a coarse file or knife. That’s a lot of wasted time. It may be possible to design around this by adding material.
Strength is poor. The production parts fortunately didn’t suffer, but I made a cardboard cutter in ABS+ that I discussed elsewhere at the forum. These cutters gradually wear out, and the teeth can break easily. However, the part in ABS+ loses teeth so quickly that it’s better to print in ABS. Each print is about 5.5 hours and steals the slots for 2 production parts.
Now the cosmetics of ABS+ are superior. The layers aren’t as visible and the surface has a matte finish, instead of gloss of normal ABS. It is the way to go if you want to pass a printed part for other technology. But this matters very little to me, unfortunately.
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What build plate surface does your printer have? And do you have a heated enclosure?
The surface is the stock PEI that came with the Prusa i3 Mk3s+. The enclosure is not heated. It only protects from drafts.