I´m really tempted to do an aliminum chassie upgrade but i´m not sure if

I´m really tempted to do an aliminum chassie upgrade but i´m not sure if it´s easy enough to do at home?
I have access to industrial machines doing this stuff but i think it´s important that for it to be a part of this project it needs to be easy enough for everyone to do themselves…
What do you think?

What do you think about something like this: http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/showimage.php?img_id=74353&crt=991f5ede81c2e51caa9808a980a33ee0
The aluminum piece could have the same “waist” dimension all the way so that would result in a rectaungular aluminum plate which would be as easy as it gets (and you need to drill some holes) and then have a larger plastic part in the middle

Maybe another possibility would be to design some aluminium reinforcements in existing PLA/ABS chassie. in addition or merge with the chassie : would be easy to do at home if minor alumunium pieces, as these found in local (and not RC dedicated) maker shop

Does it mean that the actual one is not rigid enough?

@Pascal_POECK As far as not printing it with a 100% infill i guess it is (i´ve broken two so far). I ahve now printed it with 100% infill so let´s see how it holds up. I might add something to the design to make it stronger…

@Szymon_Kobalczyk That picture is of a prototype of the Xray XB4: http://www.teamxray.com/xb4/ There are 3D printed parts on the prototype.

Ok, if you go for the full plate, i have posted a DXF of the full plate over at Thingiverse!

Have you tried printing it in Nylon? It would be able to bend and snap back.

Post some pics of the broken part(s) so we can see where the failures occur.

@Wylie_Hilliard Nylon is warping like crazy for me.

It’s snaps at a breaking point. There is a natural weakness right below the steering because of how the holes are positioned. It can be fixed but for best performance, an aluminum plate would be better I think.
Pictures posted earlier here in the community.

The problem with plate chassis is you always need a top & bottom plate to prevent the flex. Since we can’t print a single plate big enough, I think it’s still worth considering. I thought about using a plate of fiberglass like they used in the old RC10L chassis. Making a top & bottom deck then you can print everything else. The sheet should be easy enough to work w/ at home and be relatively cheap.

I think your weakness is the top plate not the bottom. The top plate looks like it failed in compression and once it fails, the bottom plate fails. Try putting a rib around the edge of the top plate.

I’m considering building everything around a Aluminium 6060 U shape for the main chassis. After taking some brief dimension of the existing differentials and bulkheads it should be possible to mount these inside a 30x30x30x2 profile.

A battery tray on the left, and a electronics/motor bay on the right should be possible to mount on the profile while also adding rigidity.

The biggest problem is probably the center diff, that would then mount quite far backwards in comparison, perhaps requiring a rethink of the drive line to fit inside a 30x30x30 profile. A 30x40x30 is probably a far better fit.

Will do tomorrow, basically a U profile from front to rear. The front and rear bulkheads fit in between the aluminium U profile.

To replace the plastic drive shaft a simple hollow aluminium tube from the hardware store should be fine with a pin through it.

Getting the drive from the motor to inside the U profile where the drive axle is, is probably a bigger challenge. Need to think over this for a night.

I do want to use the plastic diffs that Daniel made to make as much printable as possible. The only real solution to this is a slot in the U profile where the main gear and central diff can slot in for the main drive shaft.