I have posted before more than a year ago.

@Nedman I followed the instructions exactly.

The first error was a USB Error as well and it stated
USB Error: No backend available (lib USB driver not installed)
Now its
USB Error: Laser USB device not found
****edit
I went and used the other option and it worked perfectly. I also saw an old post from @Scorch that had a screen shot of how to verify. So after i did it i checked device manager and it was successful. One hurdle complete lets go onto the next. Last time I also could not get it to cut but I was using x8 so let me see if It can cut this time.

@krystle_phillips I am glad you have it working now. In the end what was the last thing you did to get it working? Was it the K40 Whisperer installer or the Zadig installer that worked for you?

@Scorch Thanks. I tried Zadig twice and it didnt work. I used the K40 installer after and perfect.

New issue I just finished watching your first video “Overview/Introduction” I imported an image resized and everything but every image I import into whisperer is rendered as grayscale…which means its raster engrave right?

When i select that option it moves a lot but nothing happens no image goes on the paper.

How do I get all of the colours (raster engrave, vector engrave and vector cut)

@krystle_phillips If you haven’t watched the YouTube videos on the page yet, I highly recommend you do so. They are not too long and tell you exactly how to do pretty much everything you need in Inkscape to use the file in K40 Whisperer.http://www.scorchworks.com/K40whisperer/k40whisperer.html

@krystle_phillips this video is the best to get started making a design. Only the stroke colors get converted to vector operations. (Not fill or imported images.) https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9wYvbenigtk
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9wYvbenigtk

@Scorch Okay.
I got all three but when you said adjust the power to 1million…how do I do that?

@krystle_phillips In the video I think I set it to 10 Milliamps. To set the power you need to hold down the test button and adjust the knob until the current on the meter reads what you want. I think the general guideline is don’t go above 16 mA otherwise you run the risk of significantly reducing the life of your laser tube. (I don’t go above 12 mA.) Make sure you don’t have anything you care bout under the laser when you hold down the test button because whatever is under the laser is going to get hit by a laser.

@Scorch well seems my laser may going through something because at 14 it’s now able to cut through cardstock.
Just barely…now trying 15.

@Scorch This is the design

@Scorch This is the outcome after 15 mA
Barely made it through the cardstock and no raster

@krystle_phillips It should easily cut through cardstock. Did you go through a mirror alignment procedure? And make sure your mirrors and lens are clean?

@Scorch I will look at them. My husband threatened me not to touch them lol
Took him a couple days to get them right.
It could very well be that since its been packed away about a year.

what speed are you running that job at? for cutting 1/8" birchwood I usually go 6-8 mm/s@15ma max.And are you using an air assist?
If your laser has sat for a long period of time I would recommend changing your coolant water if you haven’t yet. If it has indeed sat for a year with the same water there is the possibility you are losing some power to bleed-out into the water(can gain conductivity as it becomes contaminated). Are you hearing any squealing?
and to check the mirrors without touching them i pulse the laser at each corner with a lil tape on the laser head opening before the third mirror(not after the focus lens) and see if they all stack appropriately. if they do then it should be aligned. if they are dirty clean them VERY GENTLY with a Q-tip and some isopropanol or similar soft solvent. Do not use acetone, it will ruin your mirrors. And dont press hard, it can mar the coating.

@Domm434 I ran it at 8mm/s
I do not have air assist unfortunately
Talk to me about coolant water…I have no clue what that is.
There is a little squeak nothing significant.
I may have something I can use…no acetone gotcha.

Wish me luck and I look out for your answers on the other questions.

the water you run through the laser tube to cool it needs to be distilled water and changed periodically. Tap water has minerals and other contaminants that increase its conductivity, allowing power to leech into the water and lowering the tubes’ output. easy fix, just buy a few fresh gallons at the local market. the squeaking can indicate this or a failing HVT in the laser psu. if its only a small squeak I wouldn’t fret about that. Also be aware that the laser tube is a consumable item and loses its “oomph” over time. It may very well be time for a fresh tube if nothing else helps.

@Domm434 ok…i have tubing for days. When it was put down the tubes and pump were removed so no dormant water. When I started it back yesterday I used regular tap water…I am not sure what was used before.

Can I use regular water till I get a chance to get the distilled?

its not recommended and may be your issue. I’d run to safeway/walmart or an equivalent and get some distilled water. Its usually only a dollar a gallon or so.

@Domm434 I am in the Caribbean. Distilled water isn’t as easy to come by here. I will ask around.

I wonder if the laser beam is bouncing off of something in the laser head. I would check to see if the laser beam has more power before entering the laser head then it does after exiting. You could do this by taping a piece of paper over the entrance to the laser head, then doing a test fire. If the paper marks faster before the laser head than it does after then there is a problem in the laser head

@Scorch Work got in the way…let me test this theory.