I have a 2 week old Printrbot Simple Metal, and I asked this in a Facebook group and got all kinds of answers except the answer to my question. Does anyone use the glue stick directly on their print bed? it seems on long prints the tape starts to lift and starts rubbing on the print head. Changing the tape on over ether print is getting expensive. Yes I have been told about the PLA soup, and glass beds, and although those were all informative, it didnt answer my question, so is this a good option, glue on the bed?
I only use the glue on top of the tape your problem is that your bed is not clean. Use isopropyl alcohol and rub the bead clean. Then your tape will stick well.
I think it comes down to whether you could get pla to stick to cold metal. I couldn’t get it to stick to unheated bare alum (no black) on the printers I designed so I added heaters and glass. The glue stick might help. Pb advises tape to “extend the life of the bed” aka if the nozzle accidentally scrapes the bed that’s not good.
Entirely your call, if you get warping then there’s your answer and you’ll just have to clean up the metal with some isopropyl. To clean glue stick off glass that wasn’t enough and I had to wash it off. Water on metal… Eh not as good.
I hope that’s a sufficient run through of the different use cases, and I definitely know the pain about tape ripping and peeling. Oh, you could try clamping a sheet of acrylic to the bed and doing your first layer at 200, but I would be very concerned about the inductive probe not working through that added thickness, even if it was something less than 1/8" thin.
Also check out my website http://tec-base.com for an lcd adapter board for the printrbot simple metal.
I have ruined an aluminum bed because I did not use tape. The screw on my z rod came loose. It dragged and etched into the bed.
@Nathan_Walkner That thickness is totally unnecessary. Just a barely visible skin coat is enough.
I don’t use glue. Blue tape for pla, kapton for abs. If the tip is shaping layers, calibrate your extrusion. It could be a bit much. If probe scrapes, just move it up a bit and recalibrate z offset. Your first later may be to low if it scrapes the first hater. Always do slower first layer - even 50%. Slower speed should be easier overall… I start at 40mm/sec. First later can be 5 or 10 degrees hotter to stick better too.
This is the answer that works perfectly for me, and I have been printing for about 1 year now:
1) 3M automotive 150 deg.C masking tape on the build plate
This tape is cream coloured, and once laid down it does not come off, unless you slowly peel it away starting from the edges of the plate.
2) UHU glue-stick on top of the automotive tape
BUT there is a trick to the glue stick - use a small spatula to rub very firmly over it. Initially, the glue will be very slippery, but keep on rubbing until the glue goes from slippery to really, really tacky. This usually takes less than 1 minute.
Warning - if you print something with a large flat area directly on the build plate, you will NOT be able to get it off the plate without removing the tape from the edges, or breaking the print. In these cases, don’t rub the glue for so long, or it will stick too well.
Using this method, I was once able to lift the entire printer (Printrbot Simple Metal) off the desk just by holding the printed part. The printed part then snapped. The automotive tape plus the rubbed-on glue is that strong. This is not an exaggeration.
I have found that the uhu glue is too sticky. I had one print on a glass bed that would not come off. I ended up breaking the glass in order to get it off. Which I think means that it is too good at being glue for 3d printers
I think that the purple elmers is great, because you know when it is ready to print. I print it when it is just turning completely clear. I find that at that point in time you can’t go wrong
Wow, I step out for a bit and come back to all these replies, thanks guys. The bed is calibrated and all is well for “shorter” prints. I have noticed that taller ones are the ones the eventually have the tape come lose, thats where the rubbing starts, on shorter ones with fresh tape there is never an issue, I guess I just have to swap the tape every 2-3 prints then =/
@Nathan_Walkner It’s pretty hard to do not enough. Going way overboard isn’t a solution to avoiding the problem of not enough. A paper thin layer works just fine,or really, just a thin enough layer to consistently change the shine of the plate it’s on.
I recently found CoroPad. No more tape to replace, no more glue residue. Just wipe occasionally with isopropyl alcohol. I did a review and write up on it. I am doing a more in depth write up on my website.
Thinned Elmers glue with water about 1:8. PLA sticks very well to any PVA. Sticky when it’s hot, comes right off when it’s cold. Amazing solution.
However. PVA and PLA are best friends, so you can’t lose.
With a heated bed and glass using Pla I heat the bed to 39’ in summer and 45’ in winter and use hairspray.
Little late sorry. I have a Simple Metal with Heated Bed and I use plain kapton for normal PLA prints and hairspray for large PLA prints or when using other materials. I use Extra Super Hold Aqua Net. That brand is suggested on a lot of sites and I just use alcohol to clean it off
I don’t have a glass plate - I am using the Printrbot Simple Metal’s original steel plate, with strips of 3M’s 150 automotive tape on top.
If a print does not detach because of the UHU glue on the tape, I must remove the tape. But this has only happened twice.