I cant get my prints to stick to blue painters tape properly.

I cant get my prints to stick to blue painters tape properly. And the ones that do have this horrible look on the bottom. The rest of the print is great its just the bottom that looks terrible and doesnt seem to hold to the tape well at all. Any advice?

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All painter’s tape brands are not created equal. I’ve had bad luck with cheaper brands and have ended up using 3M so it will stick. If I don’t want to have the texture of the tape on the bottom layer, I’ll add a raft in the slicer app. This all assumes you’re happy with the calibration and height or thickness of the first layer.

There is such a thing as smooth painters tape. It’s for delicate work. And if you’re printing on glass, don’t bother with tape. Instead put a layer of Elmer’s glue on (a glue stick, not the liquid form.)

Painter’s tape is really only decent for PLA. Is that really PLA? And yes, 3M blue is best if you’re using painter’s tape.

Yeah its straight up clear PLA from atomic filament. I have a PEI sheet on my print bed but my printer was acting funky recently making the Y motor take too many steps and going way past the calibration points causing it to ram into my PEI sheet and cause several gashes in it. So i sanded them down and added blue tape while i wait for my new sheet to arrive. But i bought the cheapest roll. Thats what i get for being cheap lol

Killed my hopes and dreams lol
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I would reflash the firmware on your printer and see if it fixes your issue. Printed in blue tape for years. Get the duck brand or 3M and wipe it with a very slight amount of rubbing alcohol before printing. PEI is still superior but I understand that saying that isn’t going to help your current situation.

I had to change the steps per mm then change it back and it seemed to fix the glitch. Not sure what it was since i reflashed and factory reset several times with no progress

Thing that worked the best for me still is using an aluminium plate (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:236887) on top of my heatbed, which I then spray with Hairspray. I was really surprised how well it works.

On my one printer I use a green masking tape from Canadian Tire. A light sanding with med-grit paper, then a quick wipe with a cloth to get the dust off and I’m good to go!

On the other, I’ve been printing directly onto unheated acrylic. Works pretty good!

In both cases, I find that my main problems with sticking (either too much or too little) are:

  1. contaminated surface. resand and wipe. Maybe a wipe w/ rubbing alcohol.
  2. layer height. Seems to drift for me. And so I’m periodically having to give the set screw that hits the Z-home switch a tweak every now and then. I tend to err on the side of too low. Lower sticks better, but sometimes causes extruder stepper to skip a bit.

Thanx :slight_smile:

@Jeff_DeMaagd I’m printing ABS on the blue 3M masking tape too. The greatest thing about it (besides the ultimate adhesion), compared to anything else, is that you can turn off the heat after the first layer without any consequences (given your ambient room temperature is not freezing).

The only issue with ABS printing on the tape which I had once is the curling (warping) of the part’s bottom on the edge of the tape (the tape goes off the bed along that edge under the curling force). But immediately fixed that by cleaning the bed with 91% isopropyl alcohol prior to the tape application.

Maybe it’s too hot? Did you check that?

Lowered my live Z adjust and used a different kind of tape. Insane adhesion lol

Well good news everyone my prints are sticking now… a little too well now im having to sand off the tape that comes off with the print lol

Congrats! Trust me, that’s only for your general good. Get a good putty knife/spatula to remove parts easily (some edge sharpening might be in order). I’m rarely damaging my tape on removal, so it serves for 10+ prints over at least. It takes some practice. Also You can slice taking into the account torn tape locations on the plate, moving the part to the unscathed corner.

I decided to go up on my live Z adjust so theres a .1mm less squish on the filament which means it wont stick as much. Successfully removed a print (which was still insanely stuck) without ripping chunks of tape. Woohoo!