I accidentally forget to heat the bed when printing ABS on glass with UHU glue stick. Surprisingly it actually adhered really well. I had to kill the print because the model was not quite right (just the first draft).
But it got me to thinking how low of a bed temp you can go with UHU glue stick. I normally print at 80 degrees C. Does anyone print at a lower temp?
I was able to print T-Glase from @Tom_Martz on an unheated acrylic bed with Elmers Glue stick. I agree, stuff works amazingly well.
I’ve also seen some experimentation into rotating the part in 45 degrees on the X/Y axis, and then creating support material in order to print ABS on a non-heated build plate, but I’m not sure how well those tests came out.
It makes sense: the main characteristic of those glues is maintaining adhesion despite small changes in position.
Most people don’t buy it, but I rarely turn on a bed with any of my printers. Straight on the glass with elmer’s glue stick. T-glass, ninjaflex, PLA and ABS.
Oddly enough I’ve tried no name brands of the glue sticks and had issues. Elmer’s FTW.
@Brandon_Satterfield Interesting that you can use so many plastics that way. Do you apply fresh glue before each print?
We don’t have a heated bed at all and regularly print on it with ABS. However, we don’t use UHU or the purple Elmers… instead we use Elmers XTreme… it’s basically water soluble superglue. If the part is stuck… simply pop it in the freezer for 15 minutes… when you take it out, the water condensates and releases the part. (You could also simply soak it in a warm water bath.)
@Ben_Jackson I put a fresh layer on every now and again. Print on glass, so I can remove the bed wash with warm water. Reapply and go again.
The real key is bed to nozzle distance. Some say use a piece of paper, I always wondered, what paper? Ha. Card stock, notebook, toilet… I use a feeler gauge at .1mm in the center and adjust appropriately for the corners, I have yet to see a printer with zero deflection in the Z.
Posted today printing NinjaFlex and T-glass.
I have yet to be successful with Triton or Nylon 614/645. Have some garolite coming to see if I can run this without heat.
@Brandon_Satterfield Exactly which Elmer’s glue stick are you using? In attempting to get another stick of the kind I’m currently using (E408), I can see that Elmer’s makes a whole bunch of glue sticks with different stock numbers and the E408 seems to be out of stock or not carried by many retailers on the net.
I use the UHU glue stick and apply a new layer before each print. With a thick first layer and a very wide brim I get near perfect results.
For get 618/645 go straight to bridge. Regardless of what they say about it absorbing little water, you need to dry it in an oven before use. It does stick better.
@Dave_Kodama here we are: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ULCZ7M/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?creative=395109&creativeASIN=B003ULCZ7M&linkCode=df0&ref_=asc_df_B003ULCZ7M3353572&smid=A3PPIGCQWPHZCX&tag=pgmp-1137-97-20
On Amazon so should ship to you no issue.
I thought about actually adding this to my store, guess may not be a bad idea… 
@Ben_Jackson agreed on the brim. I always like Slic3r’s more so than simplify3D, the overlay is tighter. Great add.
@Brandon_Satterfield Thanks for the link. I’ll give this a try. I’m still very surprised that you can print ABS without a heated bed. When cooling down after printing a part, I can start to hear the part breaking loose from my (glass) bed at around 50c.
It’s all about shrinkage while the part cools off. At times a fan may be needed to speed the process.
I will note I’ve had large thin flat ABS prints that have required more than one shot. This is a noted time to clean the bed and reapply glue. Oh, and a thin layer, don’t go crazy.
@Ben_Jackson I rarely print extreme objects so I can’t swear that it works for all objects but since I started with my current glue stick “Bright Office” in february I’ve had my bed temp at 70C for ABS.
https://plus.google.com/106582723758544717904/posts/Xd8tAWx1jAm