I’m wondering how everyone chooses their brim settings based on the model being printed.
For example, do you change the brim width depending on the model’s size, shape, or contact area with the build plate? Or do you usually stick with one setting that works for most prints?
I’d be interested to hear how you decide the right brim settings for different models.
Typically only in response to print failure (or similarity to part that has failed).
Sometimes I model it instead of adding it in the slicer to easily put it only where I want.
3–8mm is my range. Large flat areas that “want” to come loose get more than things that barely need it.
Sometimes I use a brim if I need to print such that only one or two lines land on the bed for part of a print, just to keep them from coming loose.
With ASA I always use a brim or ears, with PETG rarely. 5mm or 8mm depending on what is already set…
What I do vary more is the brim attachment. Difficult piece with straight edges (thus easy to clean up) gets 0.1mm-0.15mm distance. Easier piece, curved or inner edges gets 0.2-0.25mm or ears or partial brim.
100% agree. Mouse ears great, a perfect compromise to get adhesion only where it is needed.
PrusaSlicer doesn’t support them (despite being a SuperSlicer feature for years), and instead has manually positioned ‘helper discs’, which work but can be a pita to position every time.
I just leave the brim setting at 3mm and I haven’t lost a print in about three years no mater what material I print with. But I am usually in too much of a hurry to mess with or wait for a change in my settings to try to find the perfect setting.
I rarely use it, only if print fails. Typically I use it when printing very tall and small contact area (first layer) objects. I would look for object height/area ratio, but I think it also depends on printer mechanics.
I remember this mini sax object, which is basically pipe and its pretty high (26cm). I have just upped brim width, when first try didn’t work in PLA (print bed heated). For this case, I think getting just height/width to less then 5 worked. And the ligature was even thinner (last image), but that was in PP.
That makes sense! Tall prints with a small contact area can be tricky, even with a heated bed. I like the idea of considering the height-to-width ratio rather than relying on a brim every time. It’s a good reminder that print stability also depends on the model’s geometry and the printer itself.
