How are your experiences with Taulman Bridge Nylon?

3D Printing
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1

How are your experiences with Taulman Bridge Nylon? I thought i could get it to print with critical parts on a cold glass covered with PVA but currently trying an iPhone 6 case which warps after 4-5 Layers at all 4 corners.

Any tips? @Richard_Horne probably?

2

Hi!
I don’t sure about bridge, i use 618 nylon
I use clear glass (with no heat up) and glue like this
http://www.ferozuddin.com/images/products/dolphingluesticks/dolphingluestick1.jpg

I try two different glue with same great result.

3

Oh really? With 618? Haven’t hand big success with glue yet - well basically worked but always got warping on a bit bigger prints.

4

Stick glue is like magic for nylon! I’ve test a lot different. Thank to https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587

5

maybe i will try to differ a bit in glue thickness and test around a bit more but bridge nylon should basically be easier to print than 618 so i really wonder. I’ve got both in a dry-box for months now. we’ll see. Further comments welcome of course.

6

Don’t forget to wash detail after printing there a lot of glue on bottom side.

7

True. My second was better now. Used more and fresher glue and tried with a brim additionally. Trying without a brim and the better glue now. Hopefully it’ll work - brim really isn’t that good with nylon as it is hard to cut it away.

8

PVA don’t work for me with nylon ever. I use it for PLA only (with preheat 50-60 degree)
For nylon I also test cardboard (good but rough bottom), clear glass (don’t work at all), alluminium (work but not allways)

9

sorry my fault - i was talking about stick glue of course. Still gotta try PVA again which worked for me a bit in the past with 618.

10

With stick glue for realy BIG detail I use next…

  1. Preheat to 90 degree
  2. Set a thin layer of glue
  3. Cold down.
    After this stick glue a little harder and big detail stuck as hell. But it’s a problem to get it back from glass. Warm water can help a little : )

I print 180x30 mm detail. It’s bigger I’ve print in nylon : )

11

Heated glue stick works perfectly for me.

12

@Thomas_Sanladerer Do you leave it to cool down before printing?

13

@Kit_Adams nope. I find it sticks best when it’s 90° warm.

14

Yes

15

@Helmi Did you try any of these? - Heated gluestick works for a lot of materials. I have experimented and had success with adding cellulose fibers (paper pulp) to a PVA wash - again on a heated bed, this works for most types of Nylon including Bridge.

16

@Richard_Horne , thanks for jumping in. I did indeed continue to try with Glue Stick yesterday and was successful for the iPhone 6 case with a freshly glued but unheated (due to no heatbed on this printer) build plate (an IKEA 30x30cm mirror). It stuck perfectly well and was even a bit hard to remove but it was okay at the end. The print came out quite well. As soon as i have the time i will try to print a bit more also with the 618 nylon i still have lying around in my drybox.

17

Congratulation!
Some time I heat up again for unstick detail - use heat bed or just a warm (hot) water.
I also use mirror 200x200x4 mm - works for me cheap and easy.

18

You gotta use glue (either PVA or glue stick) and you have to use a big brim. We typically will slice with a minimum 5mm brim, sometimes over 10mm. These same rules apply for 618 and 645. In our experience, Bridge will stick the best out of these 3 types of Taulman nylons.