Hi, I'm hoping you guys can give me a sequence to use to trouble-shoot

Hi,

I’m hoping you guys can give me a sequence to use to trouble-shoot my extruder issue. I’ll do a “to the point” list of the issue, and then give the long-winded version in the hopes that I don’t omit a clue and give bored people something to read.

I have an acrylic frame i3 clone.
It has a direct drive extruder.
It has an e3d V5 hotend.
Ramps board.
Marlin Firmware (more info way down)
I run it at slower speeds - 35mm/s at most.
I have had it running since August last year.
My esteps/mm were calibrated from the default 160 supplied with the machine (this 160 coincides with what the calculaters gave me) to 164 - Many hours of noob printing like this and everything has thundered along very well.

It now under-extrudes badly, randomly.
After a fail if I check e-step calibration, it is incorrect.
The calibration is always short of supplying the 100mm of filament by a rather large amount (think 50%ish).
After re-calibrating, the print starts well but I get the problem again mid print.
If I re-calibrate immediately I will get another large discreprency.
The amount it is out by is not consistent. ie. each calibration is not always under extruded by say 50%. it might be 60, might be 40 - seems random.

Test cube dimensions are always within 0.5mm of 20mm so It appears to only be an issue on the extruder side of things.

Things I’ve tried…

Stripped/cleaned hot-end.
Swopped drivers around on the Ramps. (perhaps I try swop again?)
Checked tension on the filament - seems good.
Checked Marlin version.
Updated Marlin (see below)
I will check the physical seating of all the power connectors etc. tonight.

Any wise words for me?

Long version… get coffee…

I had my first weird under-extrusion that happened mid print.
I heard my stepper doing the thunk thunk thing and after cleaning everything and stripping the hot-end etc. it turned out that the spool was pushed against the wall. Felt stupid and carried on.

Two days later my first roll of PETG arrived and I tried to print a temp tower. I had all sorts of issues trying to get it to stick/get smooth lines and found that at 255 deg (250 max according to the spool) I could print.
First test cube had slighlty thick, round corners.
Checked e-step calibration and had to move it up to 184. I thought it was a bit odd but figured it might be the new material being more sticky or something.
Cube two was actually something I was proud of. Printed really nicely.

Start printing my first “real sized” prints.
Print one comes out well.
Print two stalls half way giving a Thermal runaway message. I think this might have been an anomaly as it was running at night and a thunder storm came over. We had a bad surge when it happened. Power off, will re-start in the morning.
Repeat print two in the morning - No issues and I’m very happy.

Print three looks amazing but at about 20% completion (maybe 3 hours in) it just under-extrudes like a beast. I killed the printer, left it off for a few hours and tried again. It flopped immediately.

thanks for still reading… :stuck_out_tongue:

So I start looking at the estep calibration again. Completely out. but by a huge margin - maybe 50%. I run the bog standard A4988 drivers. They all sit at 800mA so i figured I would try swop them over. I still seem to have the problem.

I discovered that I had Marlin 1.0.0 loaded so I put Marlin 1.1.0 (the one that was officially released a few days ago) on. Same issue. Last night I re-calibrated the e-steps and I was 50% out. So i re-loaded the firmware, restored the failsafe and calibrated. My new value e-step value was 315. Applied this value. Re-test calibration. It’s perfect - exactly 100mm extruded.

Print test block. Starts perfectly, infill goes wonky very quickly and under-extrudes top layers. Re-check calibration and I’m back down at about 40% of the requested travel. So I would now need a value of about 475 which just seems crazy.

any ideas of how what/how to get it figured out would be great.

ترجم

Sounds like a partially blocked extruder. Try doing a nozzle clean with a cold pull (search for Tom Sanladerer video on YouTube)

Is there a teflon tube inside the E3d V5 heatbreak? I’ve been reading up and when I was cleaning my hot-end I didn’t see the white plastic that I’ve seen in some posts - could I have destroyed that at some point?

I am not familiar with v5 as I have v6. Try looking up in their website.

Thanks,
I couldn’t find anything for the older V5 on their site/shop - only links to the technical drawings etc. Google search was a blank too.

However - on the local vendor site you can buy heatbreaks. These have the lining and I don’t recall mine looking like this when I cleaned it out. I’ll strip apart tonight and recheck it all.

Here: http://3dgadgets.my/extruder-hotend/173-e3d-v5-compatible-ptfe-lined-heat-break-175mm.html

V5 didn’t have lining.

This is a good learning curve for me :slight_smile:

It makes sense that it’s a clone. I checked the prices and the local one’s a fair bit cheaper than the E3d site and I haven’t even factored shipping into that yet.

Does this seem like a good plan…

Check the nozzle, cold pull.
Check the lining issue.
Replace the lining if it’s an issue.
Go back to PLA.
If the issue is gone then I can assume problem is solved.
Get an original hotend to rule out this in the future.

Possibly I had a partially blocked nozzle that I worked around by heating up to much? Which has then nuked the lining?

Sounds like a plan, and also a feasible explanation.

You guys rule! Looks like that was the issue. Thanks all. I never would have chased a blockage, in my head it was electronics lol.

I tried the cold pull and I couldn’t get the filament out. Pushed temp right up and it was still stuck.

So I pulled the nozzle out and cleaned it with a guitar string for the .4mm hole and Allen key to push any filament through the now open hole.

Pulled out the heartbreak from the heat sink and it was a solid mass. I looked and discovered that the teflon can only be inserted from the hot-end side. So I heated it a bit with a lighter and tried to push the filament through with an Allen key again. It popped out and there was a SERIOUS blockage in it and a small tear that had filament slammed in. Probably from me at some point.

Rebuilt the hotend (no teflon lining) to check calibration. Added a sponge with some oil to hopefully stop the filament sticking to the now too large bore in the heat break. It calibrated back to my original 164 steps exactly. Figured screw it and I printed a really decent test cube at 235 degrees.

Things I noticed to watch out for the block issue…
The pressure needed to feed the Petg by hand is far less now.
The extruded filament is a nice smooth line. It was “squigley” before.
I’m now at the manufacturers temp range…doh.

I think I’ll replace the heatbreak and save enough to get one of the original e3d bundle packs with a dual extruder and V6