Hi all. I’ve got some questions regarding the electronics for the F1 car. Mainly regarding the re-usability of the parts. Can I reuse any of the parts for say an RC Drift car, helicopter etc.
It depends. In case of an RC drift car for example is very possible that you can reuse all the electronics (servo, speed controller and even the motor depending on its turns “t”). However, this becomes more difficult if you want to reuse the electronics of an aircraft, multirotor, or helicopter. In this case the speed controller only goes one way (you need back and forward for the F1). On the other hand, the motors usually are outrunner instead of inrunner and the servos are not as powerful as those used in cars. However if you indicate the electronics that you want to reuse I’m sure we can help you 
@Jose_Vh Thanks for the input! So in the case of an RC drift car, most, if not all of the electronics from the F1 can be reused? Since I’m new to the whole RC game, I’ll be buying everything, the motor + esc, transmitter + receiver, servo, battery and charger.
If you don’t mind, I actually have questions regarding the charger/battery as well. The charger included in the kit on 3D Print n Pack seems to be the IMAX B6 with power and current rating at 50W/5A respectively. The battery recommended by Daniel is a 2S2P 4200mAh 65-130C battery. I looked up the math quickly and if I’m not wrong, the battery needs a charger that can provide 17.64W(2.1A * 8.4V) and 2.1A at 1C and if I were to charge at 2C, it would be 2 times that right?
Then I read something about multiple cells affecting the max charge current. So for the case of the battery, it’s about 6A(50W/8.4V). So taking efficiency loss(20%) into consideration as well, does this mean that I should go for a charger that produces 60W/6A instead?
Also, for voltage calculation regarding the batteries, when do I use 3.7V and 4.2V?
To be honest, I just take one think into account when I charge the batteries xD (the charging current). I’ll tell you how I’ve been charging the batteries and it works pretty well for me 
I also have the IMAX B6. It can charge almost all the batteries that you can find nowadays in the market (however, I only use LiPo batteries). When charging with IMAX there are 3 things that you have to choose: one is the type of battery (lipo, nimh, life…) the other is the number of cells, and the last one is the charging current. There is a “rule” that says your charging current shouldn’t exeed 1C . This means that if you are using a 4200 mAh battery (regardless of the number of cells) you shouldn’t exeed 4.2 A when charging the battery.
However, if you are not in a hurry, I recommend you to charge at 0.5C. I have 2200 mAh 2s 40-50C batteries and I charge them at 1A (0.5 C more or less) They are completely charged in 1 hour and a half. So if you do the same with 4200 batteries they should be charged in 3 hours more or less. The slower charge current you use, the longer your battery will live.
If you want to make your batteries live longer, I also recommend you not to download any cell below 3.3 V (Some people say that the limit is 3 V). That is why you need a Lipo Safe. It beeps when one of the cells reach 3.3 V (In some of them the voltage can be programmed).
Summarizing:
- Don’t exeed 1C when charging ( I recommend 0.5C)
- Don’t download any cell below 3.3 V ( You need the lipo Safe)
- Don’t exceed the download current that the manufacturer recomends. There are 2 different “C”. You say that your battery can hold 65-130C. The first value is the continuos current and the second is the peak current you can hold during 10 seconds. 130*4.2 =546 A is crazy! you’ll never get that curren in an rc car (not in the F1, that for sure xD). I used a 3S 5200 mAh 30C lipo to start a motorbike which start current peak was 140 A and it worked incredibly good, so you can imagine the power of that kind of batteries.
Hope I could help you a little bit!
Regards!
@Jose_Vh Oh you definitely have helped, I actually feel bad for asking you so many questions 
Just one more thing, regarding the power source for the IMAX B6, all I need is a cable that can deliver 12V right? Cause I’m looking at the head needed for the power source and I feel like I have a few wires that can fit that. Or do I need to buy it separately? I saw some that came with power bricks and all and I’m not sure if that’s needed cause it looked kind of overkill to me.
Don’t worry by the questions 
What I don’t understand is why you need the cable. When you buy the IMAX there is a cable to connect to the plug (220V). This is what the IMAX needs:
Tell me if that is what you need
@Jose_Vh Oh really? Did you get it from HK or your local store? The ones currently available on HK doesn’t come with the power source 
While those that do come with US plug instead which isn’t compatible with where I live.
Now I understand everything. I didn’t know that there was the option to buy the IMAX without the power source. Don’t worry, the photo I posted yesterday is the power source that came with my IMAX B6. I think that it is easy to find because is a very common power source.
Tell me if you need more photos or something!
@Jose_Vh Hmm, I think I’ll order the charger first and in the event that I don’t have the suitable cord, I’ll get it from my local store instead. Regarding the lipo safe you mentioned, is that another part I need to get to let me know that the voltage has dropped below 3.3V or is that built into the ESC?
It depends. Some ESC had that option and they cut the current suply when voltage drops below certain value. Some others don’t have that option and you have to buy something like this:
http://www.ebay.es/itm/like/161681631897?chn=ps
It beeps when one of the cells has low voltage and you can see the total voltage and the voltage of each cell in the display. It is conected in the balance cable of the lipo (the small one) so you don’t need anything more.
Even if your ESC has cut voltage option, this lipo safe is very useful to test the voltage of your lipos. You can check them very fast.
Hi there, so my battery arrived but I’m kind of confused at what to do for the cable connections. I assume this is the part that goes into the battery while the other end goes into the charger. Do I have to remove anything? I might be wrong but I’m assuming the black cover, which I assume is the heat shrink may be insulting the head?
https://profiles.google.com/photos/111663068474906871179/albums/6463742421804233745/6463742423377758690