Been printing for a couple of weeks now , lots of calibration cubes, and hollow cubes, a few parts for my next prusa printer, now the funny thing is I printed a herringbone gear all appeared well, apart from the issue of the teeth being reversed on the print. here’s link to a pic of the gear I printed http://tinyurl.com/c38jaqp the teeth on JerZ gears points to the right yet my print the teeth point to the left " strange ".I downloaded the file put it though slic3r then on to pronteface to print. I don’t know why its happened yet investigating today thought I share with you guys
I replaced my Wades with a tweaked version of the Eckstruder, the wades is a little bit out dated now.
I’ll have too check it out got a link to the Eckstruder. I printed the herringbone to see if my printer could do it.
Theirs fits better than my go at a conversion but lacks my inner bearing race clearance. But it’s a big jump up from a wades.
Don’t get hooked up on having herringbone or helical gears, straight gears work fine.
You probably have an axis backwards - it has happend to pretty much everboy and you typically won’t notice it with symmetrical parts like calibration cubes.
X+ -> Extruder moves to the right
Y+ -> Bed moves to the front (which, relative to the bed, moves the nozzle back)
> Obviously the nozzle should lift :)
I had my Y reversed, but my first calibration cube was not symmetrical.
“You probably have an axis backwards” that’s got me stumped should it matter?. skip too the 1.09 min http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5aDT-SJxQA I kind of put the extruder on backwards due to the large gear catching the bar clamps also the Y axis oriented so the stepper is at the back, see the start off this vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=0zUAqVm7xRw
If the part would look different if you looked at it in a mirror, it will matter if you have an axis backwards. You don’t have to physically change the motors around, you can reverse the direction of an axis in the firmware or by swapping the connections to its motor.
Or simply inverting it in the firmware config, you may need to physically move the min endstop to the other side.
Yep, I had the same problem with an inverted axis. Nothing to do with the slicer.
well I kind of solved the issue I flipped the motor connector around, altered the marlin F/ware enabled the max endstops " which the MAX endstop isn’t to clever doesn’t seem to catch the trigger straight away, possible because the MIN is triggered " looking for a way to disable it in F/ware altered this line
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 200
and this line for the homing
#define Y_HOME_DIR 1
So I can maintain the homing too what’s become the front of the printer " if that’s makes sense".
…or you could swap out the pin numbers in pins.h.