Here is list of electronics I've selected based on information from the group and

Here is list of electronics I’ve selected based on information from the group and help from Jari Worsley and others. Let me know if you have any suggestions or if I missed anything:

I already have the Hobby King GT-2 2.4Ghz transmitter.

Turnigy TrackStar Waterproof 1/10 Brushless Power System 4000KV/80A
$ 50,27
Turnigy Accucel-6 50W 6A Balancer/Charger
$ 22,99
Turnigy 4000mAh 2S 40C Lipo Pack
$ 18,24
Lithium Polymer Charge Pack 18x22cm Sack
$ 1,99
HXT 10kg Servo (metal gear) 55g / 10kg / .16sec
$ 7,97

Total: $ 101,46

Thanks for putting the list together, much appreciated. Maybe the servo should be waterproof, what do you think?

@Szymon_Kobalczyk Recommendation from The OpenRC Google Group:

Cheaper one:

Comments on this?

Mmm, probably. I’ll have another look! (Search on HK isn’t very helpful on this…)

Search on hk is not very good. plus you have to pay attention to which warehouse you are ordering from…
I have the bluebird servo you linked above

and have been very happy with it. I have it in a 1/10th scale truggy. It’s fast enough and enough torque. 9kg comes as standard on a 1/8th scale monster truck so 10kg in a 1/10th truggy is plenty.

Is it waterproof? yes:

I chose a waterproof servo and used corrosionx to waterproof all my electronics. Just makes a lot of sense - I don’t have to worry about “hidden” puddles or standing water now at all.

The gt-2 radio and receivers are good too - I use the flysky branded ones. Same thing just rebranded (as are the Ansmann W5/6 series).

just noticed the combo you selected has a waterproof ESC - so I’d definitely get a waterproof servo. Motors are inherently ok getting wet (just need to make sure you look after the bearings afterwards). and the RX can be taken care of in many ways - cheapest is use a small balloon and zip tie… and lip0s are inherently waterproof - because if they weren’t sealed they’d be on fire already…

digital vs analog? no idea :slight_smile: I made the decision based on what was available from the UK warehouse (no waiting, no import taxes) and what looked suitable, and what was waterproof…

looks fine. slightly slower but you won’t notice that. and not waterproof. but $8 cheaper.

Once decided on the servo, should we name this a “default” setup? Meaning i will “reverse engineer” these parts and they will be part of the upcoming Assemblys? Like reference parts…

I wouldn’t do a default list. Do a reference list with power outputs/capacity etc. and then test results. Part of the attraction of printing this car must be scavenging parts off older cars to get a printed one going…

  • think about punch settings on the ESC when you get it. turn them down low to start with
  • diffs / shims - not sure on bearing choice? the gears are printed aren’t they? shim recommendations might be good - plastic gears properly shimmed will last a lot longer than not.

In my experience the BMS (Blue bird) servos aren’t exactly waterproof - i’ve had one fail from driving through a puddle. They are very good servos, though, and even the quickest one still has plenty of torque for a 1/10th scale car.

I must have been lucky so far then. My experience only represents a sample size of 1…

@Jari_Worsley we’ve got about ten of the bluebird servos in use, mostly 620, 621 and 630 types. As long as you (somewhat) keep water away from them, they’re great little parts.
Unfortunately, the one that failed was the throttle/brake servo on a Tamiya TNX - it got stuck at full throttle and consequently had the truck jump off a ~20m cliff.

@Daniel_Noree i’d go for a “default” setup, but have the parts’ specs listed in a highly visible spot, so folk can easily choose proper parts. Which will vary based on personal preference anyways.

@Jari_Worsley Ok, “default” was maybe the wrong word to use… :wink: What i meant was basically that instead of using “made up” parts like i have the motor and battery now, i will model these “real world” parts and put them in the car. Other than that we can list them somewhere for other to use as reference.

@Thomas_Sanladerer Ok, i will do that!

I really need help finding suitable parts to replace the printed drivetrain with. The setup i have today is (non brushless) weak and old, and for the moment the drivetrain is holding it together quite well.
However, moving up to a brushless setup such as mentioned above will most probably shred the diffs to pieces and the printed drivetrain.

As i´m sure we will be able to produce something alot better over time, there should be some alternative parts to use.
Beacuse after hours of printing your gonna want to testdrive this thing!

@Bill_Ide made a list of parts he used from Losi T-TEN and there is a modified version for those parts(not updated with new wishbones) BUT, i need to know those are the most suitable parts to use in this project. If you guys can help with that i can then modify some of the parts so we dont need different parts to switch between those parts and printed parts…
Either verify that the Losi T-Ten parts are the best way to go or suggest alternatives…

Complete drivetrain including differentials…

This is the one i mentioned and what I have in the car. Can’t figure out if it’s a specific car or just a replacement part…

it’s probably cheaper to spec a particular car as a “donor” car for the metal parts. buying individual drivetrain pieces is going to get expensive very quickly (e.g. $10-15 per diff, plus CVD’s etc).

for good availability, perhaps something from traxxas or HPI? or one of the cheapie taiwanese 4wd buggies?

These are essentially the same buggy - variously marketed as the Maverick Strada XB Evo, the HSP XSTR, Exceed RC, himoto (can’t remember model). Pretty basic, no slipper clutch, derived from a nitro model. but it has an all metal geared drivetrain. It’s dirt cheap too. There are truggy, buggy and touring car versions. They are pretty basic hobby cars - but they are cheap. be a good starting point perhaps?

Or up market use a Team Associated B44 as a donor? !

Team C/Ansmann Racing do the same trick. as do Thunder tiger/team associated at 1/8th scale.

I’m not sure what other 4wd car to suggest as a donor.

Why 4wd? Why not 2wd? Printing means you’re not restricted to current fashion in rc. you could print a 2wd chassis that uses the rear diffs off a 1/8th scale…

I have bought one of these conrad item :236280. I have started to rebuild center diffcase with this. I choose this diff because it’s cheap and you can get one with same dimensions in steel.
My intention is to modify the whole drivetrain with this diff.

Also see conrad itemnr:

another complete diff: 236992

What do you think? I’m open for other suggestions.