Here is a little update on my CoreXY printer.

3D Printing
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Here is a little update on my CoreXY printer.

The video shows it printing some spool holders in the begining and a short walk around the printer towards the end. My current spool holder is a 3$ bike mount bracket from Menards. It looks like crap, but works.

Sides are finally enclosed with my ebay Lexan panels, and are easy removable using wingnuts. I am running all prints via octoprint now, and just updated to the “devel” build which I really like. The time-lapse feature mesmerizes me each time I view them.

All electronics are mounted up front in a clear cover Hoffman box I picked up from a surplus house for $5.00. It has a push/pull fan system and the electronics stay nice and cool. Plus it holds the Viki LCD and swivels out of the way on a hinge.

Dual extrusion is mounted and tested, but to be honest I never use it. I was hoping to keep PLA loaded in one, and ABS in the other so there was no change overs based on what I was printing. But most slicers seem to see multiple extruders as E0 = primary, E1 = support or infill. To be honest I am not sure it’s worth the weight added unless I get some PVA water soluble filament for crazy supported prints.

I ended up getting true lead screws to replace my 8mm x 1.0 pitch threaded rods. Misumi was nice enough to give me the First150 promotion even though I have purchased before. Took some sweet talking, but those guys are great. The lead screws used up the whole $150 (wow pricey).

All wiring is now modular using PCI-express power connectors and molex connectors for easy tear down. I will dress it up better later but wanted to get things running again to bring the printer down to the Midwest Reprap show in Goshen IN next week. Can’t wait to see some of you there,

Also big thanks to Gary Hangsleben for printing me some new parts when I went and melted down my PLA gantry parts during a long and hot ABS print. I have now determined my enclosure can reach 50->60C just from the residual heat from the 24Vx400W_350mmx350mm heated bed after things reach thermal equilibrium. Lessen learned.

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Here is the link to my active Google Drive Directory where I am working on the files. It is live so as I make changes, they are in there. Sorry it’s a mess. This is a perpetual WIP, so until I am happy I probably will not do a full writeup with instructions.

I work in solidworks 2013 (soon to be 2014). I will also make an updated step file and sketchup file today.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B1rU7sHY9d8qS1pUWDJodXJnTDg&usp=sharing

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Wow, nice work all the way around. Solid build, envious of the e3d extruder.

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Looks good, I’ll se you at the mrrf.

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Good job

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Looks great. I like your z axis.

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Thanks everyone for the kind words. It has been a labor of love, then frustration, then more love, then more frustration. That’s OK, who wants to solve easy problems.

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@Eclsnowman NICE! Looks great, and can’t wait to see it at MRRF! Btw, goes the ezstruders working for you :slight_smile:

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@J_O11 tension could be better on the ezstruders. But they are super compact and easy to use. I like the look of that bulldog extruder from reprapdiscount too.

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Cork layers on your build platform? Insulation?

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What’s the red stuff on the hot end heater block?

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@Anthony_White yup. Two layers below. One like a picture fame on the sides to hold the aluminum heat spreader above the silicone mat.

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@Tim_Rastall high temp silicone tape. Bonds only to itself. I think it help the heat creep up to the heat sink. Plus it holds in my thermistor. a roll is $3 at the hardware store around here.

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What made you go with direct drive extruders over bowdens? Im getting Really frustrated with my bowden setup and all the maintenance with it and looking into swapping over to direct drives, But I will probably print something.

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@Joe_Spanier I wanted to be able to print flexible filament and have fast retraction. But the downside is ripple on flat perimeters coming off corner changes due to the weight of dual direct drive extruders. I only see it if I print too fast (100mm +)