This is specifically if it’s inverted enabled, to be clear.
Leaving ENA+ and ENA- entirely disconnected. No wires at all.
If you connect GND to ENA+ and ENA-, 5V isn’t connected to anything because it’s not needed.
When you don’t have opto-isolators, sometimes it’s really important not to let signals “float” by not connecting them to something. But with the opto-isolators, you won’t have stray current creating a signal if they aren’t connected.
Back and ready to try this again. I have a new 36V PS and drivers and have hooked up just one (Y) axis to see if we can get things to move. I verified that it works with the chip, and did an initial connection in the original connection that you told me:
5V(red) > ENA+, STP(blue) > PUL+, DIR(white) > DIR+, and GND(black) > ENA-, PUL-, DIR-.
The PS is supplying 36V and the Amps are not adjustable.
Non movement readings are ENA = 4.99v, DIR = 2.9v, PUL= 0.0v
When movement signal is sent readings are ENA= 4.9, DIR= 3.0, PUL=0.0
No movement. The only difference I am seeing is that the led on the driver is solid green and no blue/green.
What should I try next?
Movement is only momentary pulses on PUL/STP; what shows on a multimeter there during movement will depend very much on the multimeter.
Try entirely removing the wires from ENA on the assumption that this box is really enable-low.
I had not noticed this image in the amazon listing:
That means that you should actually try that configuration that is recommended at the listing where you got the card. It shows ENA not connected, and the active-low common drain/anode connection instead of the active-high configuration I expected.
So try wiring it up following that provided documentation.
Also see from a comment on Amazon:
I gave it four stars because of the lack of documentation and horrible customer service. None of my questions were answered fully if at all. But I am here to help! The documentation they give using the link at the bottom of the sale page (look hard but it is there) is good but it’s missing a lot of needed information. It came with GBRL 1.1f, I loaded 1.1h because I wanted to use the gantry squaring function that 1.1h offers and capitalize on minor bug fixes. The 1.1f firmware that’s installed is set up for what you would use on a standard 3-axis router(as stated in the ad). I used this for a homebuilt laser and I could not be happier. Know that the firmware that is installed requires 3-axis homing XYZ.
So you can install standard GRBL on it.
Also, it sounds like it won’t command movement unless you unlock/home it, as configured. That’s not necessarily what you want for a CNC router.
You’ll want to look at the instructions here:
grbl is no longer being updated, but since they are apparently shipping an ancient version of grbl on the board, building at least the lastest (6 year old version) configured for your use, following the directions, is probably the easiest path. Probably.
I did the re-configuration of wires to what you have above. I guess I missed that when I purchased it - at the time I wasn’t looking at using the NEMA23 motors and drivers. Unfortunately I am not getting movement still.
What is very strange to me is that I get movement when the step sticks are installed, but nothing from the drivers. I am using Lightburn to test the movement, and I have also been using Easel, but I like Lightburn because it gives me the indicator that the signal is being sent.
How would the grbl be affecting things if the movement is working with the step sticks and not the drivers?
I will see if I can find what grbl is installed on my controller.
Ah, yeah, the step sticks giving you movement mean that’s not the problem.
With the system energized and connected, I guess you could tap PUL- to GND repeatedly to see if you get any movement. At least according to the board documentation image, you should have movement if you do that. If you don’t have movement doing that, I don’t understand how the stepper drivers are functioning.
Wouldn’t that require PUL+ be connected to 5V for repeatedy tapping PUL- with the 5V ground connection to have an effect?
Yes. That’s how the image from the Amazon listing has it configured. That’s why I made that suggestion.
It is looking more and more that this is a grbl issue, which I know a little about, but not much. Can I flash the new grbl using Arduino IDE?
Yes, you should be able to flash grbl using the Arduino IDE; it’s the recommended method. From the wiki linked above:
I fell like i am chasing my tail without knowing what a tail is. In an effort to isolate the issue being the grbl, could I get an offline controll/remote with the idea of isolating the board from the grbl settings in lightburn/easel? Would that be a troubleshooting step or would that just cause more issues?
The instructions for disconnecting the controller signals and just using direct wiring and manually pulsing the motor driver is step 1 in understanding how things needs to be setup to work. Turning off all micro-stepping and then manually pulsing the motor driver module and getting motion should work. And then you could change the DIR(ection) control and see the motor turn in the other direction. Once working this way then connecting the controller should result in a functional system.
Why you have not been able to even get the motors to step manually is a mystery.
jjust tried connecting gnd to pul- to see if I can get any motion from my motor that way and I got nothing. I did try it to dir- and ena- just to try everything and got nothing. I know the motor works and the driver is good. The motor runs with the step-stick and the driver was working on my buddies machine when we tested it.
I have a good power supply without an adjustable current that is rated at 16.6A. I guess I am at a loss here. What am I doing wrong?
5v > Pul+, Dir+
STP> PUL-
DIR>DIR-
GND > not connected
Microsteps off on driver and dip6 is on for 2.8A…..
I don’t get a warm fuzzy feeling you know what’s going on. The PUL signal stands for PULSE and means that every time the photo diode is triggered it will command the motor driver to move one step. So you do not manually “connect” PUL- to ground to get the motor to move, you tap the PUL- the ground wire as in tap, tap, tap to get the motor to move 3 steps. Whatever STP is it shouldn’t even be in the picture at this point.
As for DIR it stands for DIRECTION and you either have the photo diodes turned on for one direction or you have the photo diode off for the other direction. ie leave DIR+ connected to 5V+ and DIR- connected to ground.
And when we say ground we are NOT talking about AC chassis ground, we are talking about the power supply you are using to supply 5V and ground would be the negative side of the 5V power supply.
So, if you connect power supply 5V+ to both PUL+ and DIR+, then tap repeatedly the PUL- with the 5V ground/negative you should see your motor move CW or CCW. If you were to then connect 5V ground to the DIR- and then tap repeatedly the PUL- with 5V ground you would see the motor turn in the opposite direction as before.
Likewise. I know what PUL means; that has been covered here. I also know that I am not “connecting” PUL- to ground, it is a tapping - my bad for not being specific in my language. STP is the label on the board for PUL, if you look at the board diagram shared above, it is clearly labeled STP, so not including it in the picture is the opposite of helpful.
Again, I know what DIR means, and it is connected as stated +5V > DIR+, and PUL+. As far as the DIR-, according to the wiring image shared above, I have DIR+ connected to +5V, and DIR- connected to DIR on the control board. Is this wrong? Here is my confusion with all of this, I am getting conflicting information.
Yup, I got this from before. HOWEVER, according to the image of how it should be connected, there is no GND connected from the control board to the driver.
I think you are still trying to jump from making the motors move using manual signal control to connecting up the controller board and making things work with software on the controller and PC.
Michael had asked to step back and just verify an understanding of how the motor drivers worked by NOT connecting the controller board and ‘manually’ activating the motor controller/motor.
All my help has been without any involvement of the controller hence the surprise you were including signals from the controller board. Because, when the step-by-step of assembly instructions do not work, you either have to find different instructions or start trying to figure out why it’s not working.
I don’t have the control board connected to the computer.
I don’t understand how trying to make the motor run without the control board would be at all helpful. I have already established that the control board can run the motor when a signal is sent with the step sticks installed and driver removed from the equation. This leads me to believe that the control board and the motors are functioning, I just need to figure out why the motor isnt moving when the step-stick is removed and the driver is connected.
Are you saying to just connect the driver to the power supply and motor? If that is the case why are we talking about +5V, PUL/STP, DIR and ENA?
IF we are talking about removing the control board from the equation, please dumb this down for me: what wires need to go where? As I said before, currently I am following the directions and have +5v from the control board to PUL+ and DIR+ on the driver, STP from the control board to PUL- on the driver, DIR from the control board to DIR- on the driver. That’s it.
Would it be helpful or harmful to the troubleshooting process to get an offline controller and see if that works?
Great, because nobody is yet talking about that at this point.
I don’t know about you but I and Michael are not familiar with that driver module enough to know what’s the current problem. Just trying different connection/wiring options randomly is not how he nor I work or do things. It appears you’d like to keep wiring up the controller board and funny thing is, you keep getting the same results. ie motors not moving.
YES, wire the motor properly to the driver using what you learned about the A and B wiring of the motor when you got them to turn with the DIP package driver on the controller board.
And that includes how you had the power supply wired to the motor driver.
So then with the motor and power supply wired properly to the driver module.
Verify the dip switches are in single step and then triplle check that using a 2nd source which shows which way the little switches are supposed to be for ON and OFF. If you end up having mistakenly setup a high microstep count you might not see any movement of the motor.
Now you need to find a 5V power source and wire 5V+ to PUL+ and to DIR+ on the driver module.
Power up the motor power supply(12V or 24V or 36V whatevery you’ve been using).
Power up the 5V power supply and see if you can turn the motor by hand. REPORT YOUR FINDING
Take the 5V- wire and tap it a half dozen times on the driver module PUL- connector. You can extend a bare wire out of the PUL- terminal and tap that, or a paper clip or anything which electrically exposes the PUL- connection so you can get a good connection when you tap 5V- to PUL-. Observe if the motor turns. REPORT YOUR FINDING.
I have no idea what an “offline” controller is and not, adding a controller at this point is NOT helpful.
First off, I am incredibly thankful for the time and effort you and Michael have put into trying to help me, but I have to say that, whether intentional or not, I don’t appreciate the condescending tone and veiled insults that I am getting from you. I am honestly trying to follow what you both are putting out, but there are so many “crossed wires” in your instructions, I feel like I am ready to just pack it in and give up.
We have most certainly talked about connecting the computer to the control board. I have also been very clear about having the wiring coming from the control board from the start of this whole adventure. AT NO POINT until the post I am replying to has anyone ever mentioned a 5V power source other than the control board.
I don’t have a separate 5V power supply other than the DOESBOT control board that I have been working with and referencing all along. I just went back and reread this whole thread, and there is no reference to a separate 5V power supply. In fact, Michael has sent pictures and diagrams about the proper wiring to the control board.
I just tested the voltage between the +5V and GND on the control board, and I am indeed getting 5V. I then verified that the motor wiring was correct.
I then disconnected the STP and DIR wires from the control board to the driver so that the only wires connected to the driver is the VCC and GND wire from the power supply (both wired correctly), and the A and B wires to the motor (B-, B+, A-, A+).
Then, using the +5V wire that I verified is actually 5V (I don’t have anything labled 5V-), I tapped the Pul- connection multiple times and had no response from the motor.
Thinking that maybe when you said “take the 5V- wire” you meant the gnd wire from the control board, I tapped the GND wire to the PUL- wire numerous times, again no response from the motor.
DIP switches on the driver are set to 1 micro step and 200 pulse/rev (On, On, Off) for first tests, then tried again with the DIP switches set to ON, ON, OFF which is NC for microstep and pulse/rev. no response from any of the tests.
I looked through the Amazon listing and the DOESBOT page and couldn’t find any reference to the settings on the circled pins, but could that be causing an issue?
Last resort, If I were to abandon the DOESBOT control board and go with a different board, are there any recommendations that would get me up and running? I would like to have the ability to use both my spindle for CNC and my laser for engraving off the same control board? I have looked at the Ratmotor boards, but I don’t see a laser option on them.
Great, you found a 5V power source but you didn’t follow the step by step instructions OR you left out the part about connecting the 5V+ to PUL+ and DIR+. It was discussed that the driver module is driven by a photodiode(picture was posted) which means you MUST provide a voltage on one side and the photodiode will activate the feature(PUL, DIR, ENA) when the circuit is completed with a return path for the voltage applied(5V).
I’d also asked you to provide feedback on 2 things in that step-by-step instructions.
Yes, 5V- is the same as GND/ground on that board if you measured across GND/ground and 5V and got 5.xVDC on your meter.
I went and googled for manually controlling a TB6600 stepper motor driver and found only dozens and dozens of videos and web pages on how to control the TB6600 with an Arduino, ESP32 and a few others. A quick look at some showed they tended to connect the PUL-, DIR- and ENA- to ground and the Arduino/MCU was connected to PUL+, DIR+ and ENA+. I did not look at the code but knowing how a photodiode(LED) works the code was pulling the MCU pins high to activate things. I don’t see anything about limit resistors nor anything preventing the photodiode/LEDs from activating by powering the circuit by biasing the pins with 5V and pulling the low end down with ground.
Personally, I would have wired the who mess up and when it didn’t work I would have put an O’scope on the control lines to see that they were wiggling AND checked the 5V to make sure it was sustaining 5V when the low side was activating.
If you don’t know what any of that means or how it relates to all that we have attempted to get done maybe step back and get an Arduino and a cheap O’scope and build one of those projects and see how it works and then connect up your target controller and using the O’scope see if you can see the same type of control line activation and stepper motor motion. And those stepper motor drivers are used in many many laser cutters in the 50W and higher range since they tend to use NEMA23 motors as opposed to the NEMA17’s used in the laser cutters under 50W and 3D printers.
Maybe you’ll find this helpful:
