New to 3D printing. Im using PETG, with hotend set to 255c.the layer height is 0.2mm, print speed is 40mm/s(Max that the printer can go). Using the Easy3D K9. Sliced with Cura.
I am wonder what issue is causing this problem? Is it underextrusion, not enough heat, the filament or environment since i live in tropical climate thats usually either hot or very humid.
Also please dont tell me to buy a better 3d printer as solution because while it might be cheap for you in my case it would net to over $1000 in our currency for even a $150 usd to $300 usd printer depending on weight and other unknowns. I have attached the problem. On the left is PETG and on the right is PLA.
While most PETG I get is fairly dry out of the bag, not all is. I think Iâve removed as much as 8ml from a kg of PETG filament immediately after opening it, by drying it in my drying oven. The polyethylene bags that most filament is shipped in is not impervious to water, but if it is wet, it was most likely not kept dry properly by the manufacturer.
Did it snap and pop as you printed?
Itâs hard to be sure but under-extrusion can cause that dragged look because there is not enough on the prior layer for it to adhere to. That can be caused by heat being too low.
Have you tried printing a temperature tower? I had under-extrusion problems with PETG that I eventually discovered was due to a bad thermistor. It eventually died all the way and the problems vanished when I replaced it.
I first printed PETG on a cheap, terrible printer. So no particular reason that you would have to replace it to fix this problem, even if you end up having to repair it by changing the thermistor. Those are wear parts anyway.
It doesnt break or snap however it strings. I also thought that maybe its the cooling fan? Since the fan seems to run 100% even if you set it low. As for the temperature i already had 255 celcius and the filament printing temp says it has to be around 220c to 270c
I meant does it make a snapping or popping sound? Sorry I wasnât clear.
PLA has a pretty wide temperature range. If you arenât getting the temperature you set, you wouldnât necessarily know without testing it. So itâs possible that the fact that you set it to 255Âș doesnât mean it is actually close enough. It is just one thing that I know from experience can go wrong, it doesnât mean that it is what actually went wrong. But thatâs why I asked about a temperature tower.
My guess was that the hot end isnât staying hot enough. Too strong a part cooling fan can cool the nozzle so make sure the part cooling fan isnât blowing on the nozzle itself. Best case is the 1mm at the end of the nozzle.
Then if the problem is temperature, my bet is on the thermistor rather than the fan, due to the insulating properties of the sock.
Note that measuring the outside of the heater block (inside the sock) with a thermistor on your multimeter isnât measuring the internal temperature. There is a thermal gradient from the heater to the outside. Thatâs why I suggest printing a temperature tower. It tells you more about what the temperature of the filament is getting to, which is what ultimately matters.
Have you tried putting a box over your printer to act as an enclosure? Have you cleaned the nozzle?
Does your machine have a boden tube?
Have you calibrated the extruder lately ?
have you PID tuned the hotend?
Have you checked the connections at the board for your hotend and thirmister?
In short, It may be that PETG is not going to work with your machineâŠ..
I have successfully printed PETG with a bowden though I no longer use printers with remote extruders.
I doubt thereâs a major difference in extrusion between PETG and PLA other than temperature, and you can see that PLA is printing fine, so itâs not clear to me how extruder calibration would help.
Enclosures arenât necessary for successful printing in PETG.
I just wanted to ask. The more information you have the better advice you can provide.. I would be so bold as to ask if the PLA part was printer the same day/month/year. Myself, I have went down that rabbit hole only to find a partially clogged nozzle.
Managed to get better results but still an issue.I adjusted filament diameter to 1.9mm since even though the filament (1.75mm) supposed to be have accurancy of +/- 0.02mm but measuring the diameter with calipers gives 1.9mm to 2.1mm.
Printed a calibration cube and X and Y looks okay for 0.2mm layer height but the Z has some issues.
Compare all your speeds. Your external perimeter speed might be slower.
But being highly sensitive to speed on a printer that isnât one of todayâs speed demons might be another clue that your actual temperature is too low. I still say print a temperature tower to learn what temperature setting gives you good results, rather than trusting the setting.
