Hello! After having built a Graber i3 3d printer,

After having built a Graber i3 3d printer, I started to imagine the project for a printer, built from the ground up, and as much as possible perfect to print ABS.
After some canceled designs I made a final one and I started to build it.
It wil have (this is what I’m planning) :

  • coreXY movement
  • Auto leveling
  • Cold end of the nozzle water refrigerated
  • 6mm aluminium heated bed with 600W heater
  • 300 x 200 x 250 mm build volume
  • Closed and heated build chamber

I know that the building process is just starting but this is the state of my work until now …

Just a few ideas. Not flaming. Your X carriage looks quite heavy. Have you seen the hypercube? Your steppers look kinda small. If you are going to use a 6mm aluminum bed have you considered 1/4" thick mic6? Have you seen the eclipse3d printer? He has a similar bed mount.

Thanks for your comments, Daniel. You really looked at the pictures carefully. I agree with some of your comments and not with others.
I agree that X carriage is a bit heavy, a lot heavier than hipercube’s.
About the steppers, X and Y seem strong enough for the job, but I’m afraid that the Z stepper is a bit weak. I already made a dry run and only the Z stepper heated up a bit. These motors were recicled from epson printers and since I’m trying to keep the costs low I’ll try to keep them.
About the aluminium bed it is a machined aluminium plate. And yes, I’ve seen Eclipse3D, in fact I got a lot of inspiration from tech2c (hypercube), 3d printed life (eclipse3d) and Thomas Sanlader videos on youtube.

Love to see more custom printers. Nice work, so far :slight_smile:

The 600w Heater on Mains voltage? If so, that’s pretty much overkill for that size bed. You can pretty much get away with half that. My
#AX-02 Delta has a 320mm diameter bed and it’s only running a 250w @ 220v heater. The UK actually runs on 240v so it’s running closer 300w but it gets to 120c in about 5 mins, which is plenty fast enough.

Out of curiosity, what Electronics are you planning to run? After discovering how well Smoothie runs for 32 bit electronics, I’m in the process of moving all 4 of my printers over to 32 Bit. 3x #FB2020 CoreXY and the aforementioned Delta. 3 are running Smoothie, 1 FB2020 still runs Marlin, and it’s no contest, Smoothie wins hands down.

As for your steppers, you’ll probably run into issues in the long run. You’re better off spending the extra £28 (~$35) on some 1.8 degree 40 Nm steppers over using the salvaged paper printer ones.

600w was the value I calculated based on Tom’s Guide https://youtu.be/eure74A9HNc , he tells that a good value is 0,6w/cm2 and even better 1w/cm2. My heater runs from mains power - 220v.

I’ll use RAMPS 1.4, I like very much the tweeking possibilities.

I’ll try too keep this motors, at least during this tests period, before buyng sronger ones. I believe I won’t escape from buying new motors…

I’ll post a video as soon as I have some time to repeat a dry run.

@Luis_Machado - Whilst that may be true, in practice you can save cash by just dropping the wattage of the heater, it’ll just take a little longer to get to temp, but not by too much. Admittedly I was a bit out on timing but see the attached graph from Octoprint to ABS temps, the rest of the Electronics are 24v

If you’re going RAMPS, you may want to consider a Re-ARM (https://www.panucatt.com/Re_ARM_for_RAMPS_p/ra1768.htm) over an Arduino.
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Looks like a build i did a few years back

Cantilever bed of this size will be tricky, and 600w is a bit much. I have a 12v 350w silicone heater i got from qubd. It takes about 2 minutes to heat all that aluminum but its perfect otherwise

With my to heavy carriage, i top at 80mm/s

Minor note, steppers are SUPPOSED to get hot, and their running temperate has nothing to do with how much load is on them. Temperature is determined by the current being pushed by your drivers, and at rated current, the motors will be too hot to touch.

In fact, the faster steppers run, the cooler they are… more or less independent of load.

Last weekend I started to secure the electrics and electronics to the frame, because I want to end up with a closed printer box with all electronics, bowden tubing and filament role inside.

For now, the LCD is not definitivly fixed but it is about. at its final position.

Sorry about the quality of this pictures, it was early this morning and the light is not very bright.
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