Have you ever physically cleaned your hotend? If so, which hotend and how?

(Brandon Satterfield) #1

Have you ever physically cleaned your hotend? If so, which hotend and how?

(Thomas Sanladerer) #2

When i was still using the Budaschnozzle, i had to clean it occasionally when some particle had blocked the nozzle. A way to do that (for ABS) is to let the nozzle soak in acetone over night, and if necessary, fiddle with the nozzle’s orifice with a thin wire until whatever blocked it finds its way out.
Alternatively, a cold pull can remove most particles - heat the hotend to a fairly low temperature and pull the filament out (with a bit of force, if necessary). Cut off the last inch of filament, then rinse and repeat until the filament comes out clean.

(Jo Bigger) #3

Just cleaned the one that comes with the Omni3d Architect. Completely blocked rock solid with mix of all sorts. Removed nozzle while hot. Used tiny hand drill (less than inside nozzle mm brass bit) to drill out central blocked core. Removed remainder by holding in flame of gas hob (using kitchen tongs) until it dropped out. Cooled nozzle down slowly. Good wipe down and light brush with old toothbrush when cold.

(Chapman Baetzel) #4

makergear hotend about a dozen times. Take it apart while hot or cold(need a vise and vicegrip pliers while cold, but doesn’t burn), drill out the nozzle with a .35mm bit purchased just for that purpose(matches the nozzle apeture), drill the plastic out of the barrel and insulator with an undersized bit, turned by hand. Soak the nozzle in acetone, then reassemble per instructions.

(Brandon Satterfield) #5

Thanks all!
I used a buda for ever with no real issues. Occasionally I would get a little blockage and followed the hot method described above. I have switched to ed3 hotends and one is continuously giving me issues. It has low hours <70 on it and wanted to give it a good cleaning without scaring the bore. I’ll order some drill bits and acetone and give this a run.

(Joe Spanier) #6

I just did my e3d. I soaked the nozzle in acetone overnight and then drilled the softened abs with a 2mm drill bit. Just go slow and I held the nozzle in gloved hands so when It got to the brass I wouldn’t drill into it. Worked out well.

(Dale Dunn) #7

I’ve never had to use a drill to clean my MakerGear hot end. Back in the day, the advice was to disassemble it down to just the barrel and nozzle, then burn all the plastic residue out with a torch. I’ve done that a couple times, and now I do a cold pull. My technique for the cold pull is to maintain a constant light tension on the filament as the hot end warms up. When it releases from the nozzle, the end of a the filament will be a perfect casting of the inside of the nozzle, complete with impurities captured in the plastic. Make sure to break off any ooze before beginning.

(Brandon Satterfield) #8

Props; and cold pull does not require waiting on extra fine drill bits.

(Whosawhatsis) #9

I wrote a guide to the cold pull method here: http://bukobot.com/nozzle-cleaning

(Brandon Satterfield) #10

Whosa, great write up. Thanks all for the advice!