Has anyone used that new Taulman Alloy 910 filament yet? What’s the feedback?

Has anyone used that new Taulman Alloy 910 filament yet? What’s the feedback?

I don’t read Arabic

its spam, delete it

New? Did they change the blend recently?

Its not even real, it’s a bot that spams automatically, and its broken.

It may not be new. I saw it on Pinterest. It said new. I saw a review that said it wasn’t much better than ABS.

9979434008missing/deleted image from Google+

I looked up it’s introduction, it’s been available for almost three years now. It’s a specialty material and 910 is expensive so you might not find a lot of talk about it. Nylon is a difficult material to work with because you need to make sure the plastic is dry as it’s printed. Some nylons are terrible after sitting out for less than 12 hours, so you need to pay it out of a dry box.

Ok thanks. I’ll skip it

  • need a dry box
  • expensive
  • not the best for print quality
  • stronger than most PLA,ABS&PETG
  • slippery&rigid (perfect for gears)

910 nylon is great, I don’t use it often because of the price and limited color options, but when I do, it’s because it has properties that none of my other plastics do (maybe some of the easy print polycarbonates would be a good substitute, I haven’t tried them). 910 is very impact resistant and nearly impossible to break, like the other nylons, but much more rigid (still not nearly as rigid as PLA). If I want a part that won’t break and the cheaper nylons are too flexible for the application, I’ll use 910. If I don’t need the rigidity, I’ll use bridge nylon at half the price.

I haven’t had any problems with print quality, It’s one of the easiest high strength materials to use and prints cleanly. Certainly much easier to use than 618 nylon and polycarbonate, it doesn’t need to be baked before use if stored properly and warping isn’t too bad (probably a bit less than ABS but it doesn’t crack). I haven’t used it for large, complicated designs though, mostly small structural parts. It does creep (not as elastic as ABS or PETG), so that limits some use cases.

I’ve found 910 to work really well. Print it hot (circa 260C), and cook it at 70C for a couple or 3 hours in the oven before using it – it absorbs water within a day or so of being exposed to air but it dries out fine.You’ll know if it needs drying as it literally steams when printing – the steam is not subtle – you can hear it as well as see it :smiley:

@Walter_Hsiao thanks for the input! Informative

@Mark_Wheadon very useful info! Yes, the reviews on Amazon reveal what y’all said regarding its water retention. Many reported that it seemed “wet” or that it “popped “ while they were printing it.

@George_Allen ​ And if it pops or steams then experience tells me that you should stop at that point and dry it out. Otherwise you’ll end up with a horrible milky white stringy print with very little strength. However, when it’s dry it prints really well.

@Mark_Wheadon okay, great! Thanks.

We are a Taulman 3D reseller and have been using 910 since before it came out (we’re also a beta tester for them). It is awesome stuff, well worth the price. Unlike a lot of other polyamides (the family of polymers which include nylon) is doesn’t curl nearly as much. As far as we can tell, 910 is by far the highest tensile strength material you can build with, and it is a bit more rigid than other nylons. It is still more flexible than say PETg or PC, but not as much as other nylons like PCTPE, etc. Build on glass with glue stick at room temp. After the build is done you can heat up the bed to get the parts off - that softens the glue. Same build parameters as most other nylons: Hot nozzle (250-260°C), slow speed (<30mm/sec), thick layers (>.2mm). Don’t get carried away with wall thickness or infill percent - no more than ~4-6 perimeters (Slic3r) or 2mm (Cura) walls, and no more than about 35% infill for max strength.

Cool. I’ll look you up when I get my printer repaired and enclosure built

im joining a little late to the party but heres my experience, Alloy 910 its a great material when printed, IF you manage to print it, its a little tricky to work with at the beginning, just printed like PETG but a little hotter, i use almost the same settings (270c/80c)

Like someone said before the water absorbcion its a huge problem, just leave it on the oven for 8 hours @ 150-180F prior to be printed and you should be fine

Print Slow, 45 mm/s its fine, be patience its worthed
It can warp a little, use glass and pva glue in a cross pattern, its really hard to make it stick to the bed this way (cheaper way), but once you find the sweet spot it works ok for small parts, for something big get your self garolite or the EZ-Stik from taulman, it cost like 30 bucks or something

NO FAN, it can be used to improve aestetical appereance of the print, but it affects the mechanical properties of the print, so its a big no, at least for me

As far i can tell the mechanical properties of this matherial are great, i would test it later on harshed enbioroments (sorghum sedder) and see what happends, hope it can stand to the challenge

sorry the typos im half sleep, need beer to refuel, happy printing

@lightshadown I don’t know what the lower limit is, but FYI 8 hours at that temperature is almost certainly overkill. I find 3 hours is enough – haven’t experimented with less than 3 hours.