Got past the belt grinding noise and the vibrating....

Got past the belt grinding noise and the vibrating… Does this look like it’s working well?

Should I let it run through the entire break in gcode?

Panucatt is sending me the X5 mini that I ordered. The one they sent me has the vertical connectors only. Can’t wait to get it. This other X5 mini is a little difficult to say the least.

Looks good to me. Yes I would run it, multiple times. If you want for initial break in you can put some light oil on the rods during break-in. After that you should be good. By light I mean like a sewing machine oil, or 3-in-one. Then wipe down the rods when done. Also you can turn up your speed multiplier on the second or third run to determine your top speeds, or to determine any additional tuning required.

Was it an alignment issue after all? I was cringing pretty hard at that grinding noise…

I tore it all apart and moved the carriage to every corner and readjusted. I think that the rod that goes across the middle might have been causing some issues by pushing the sliding pieces out of whack. I also have never had the belt in the perfect position like it is now. When I could take the carriage and slide it all over the place with one hand I knew I was set. :slight_smile:

@bcrazycramer yup… All I can tell people is when its right You Will Know.

@bcrazycramer
Now your encouraging me to finish my build! I’ll be done with my extrance exam tomorrow. Then final app on Wednesday. Wednesday I hope to have some movement. Still need to get my end stops ( i lost the ones I already bought :frowning: ).

@Gus_Montoya That’s funny. This has definitely taken me some time to get this far. I’m excited to get the correct X5 mini so I can finish the wiring. I hope it arrives soon.

@Eclsnowman I will have to spend sometime running the break in gcode. My coworkers love hearing that white noise as my printer runs… So just use some 3 in 1 oil and run the break in code a bunch of times. After that I don’t need any oil at all?

I haven’t oiled mine since. And they print often. The lead screws on the other hand like a fresh dose of this from time to time: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XBH9HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1438056489&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=super+lube+teflon&dpPl=1&dpID=31-xhQ8JfAL&ref=plSrch

I’ve been using this: http://www.amazon.com/Shibari-Intimate-Lubricant-Water-Bottle/dp/B00G5K7L24/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1438069748&sr=8-3

Everything just seems to get… stiffer :wink:

@Mike_Thornbury That made me chuckle. Thank you sir.

If you are using a raspberry pi camera, are you using a wide angle lens? How long of a cable do I need? I can purchase a 2 meter cable on Amazon.

I am using a C270 logitec webcam. They are cheap if you shop for them, and available almost everywhere. They also do very good internal exposure adjustment. It is easy to remote mount due to the long cable and is plug and play with Octoprint.

Only trick is you will want to pop off the cover and manually adjust the focal ring inward. It is usually not designed to focus on something only inches away. But if you make this adjustment it will be very crisp (there are lots of online tutorials for this hack on the C270.

I also glued this to the front of the web cam. Makes it super easy to get the full bed pictured in the frame: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C3CSXC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Best of luck.

Thanks. I will order one of those webcam’s. I had already ordered that lens on Amazon. I just need to see if I can find it.

What are you using to power the raspberry pi? I want to wire it off the existing power supply.

I used two wires off the 120V lines (I just tied in at the 120V inlet to the power supply). On the end of the wires I used covered female spade connectors. If you get the right size ones they can fit over the prongs on a 120V plug prong. Then I just put several layers of heat shrink over them since it is mains power, and hot glued the power brick to the underside of the printer. Then just use a standard USB to Micro-USB cable into the PI. Just make sure the USB power brick is 2A or more.

I’ve been running the break in gcode all morning. I used a little 3-IN-ONE oil on it and this thing has gotten quiet. I love it!

@Eclsnowman “Also you can turn up your speed multiplier on the second or third run to determine your top speeds, or to determine any additional tuning required.”

How do I go about doing this?

@bcrazycramer as a reference I can run the break-in code with a multiplier at 200% (300mm/s) with no grind or slip. As you use your machine you will get to know it better. At that point you can tune your machine to go faster.

You currently are not seeing missed steps at the 150mm/s in the break-in code. Know that your gantry is never perfectly aligned. But it is currently good enough that 150mm/s is no problem. Perfection is not attainable, but closer to perfect is with experience which allows higher speeds.

@Eclsnowman Sorry… How do I set it to 300mm/s? Not sure where I set this in Octopi or elsewhere.

@bcrazycramer It is under the control tab: http://i.imgur.com/n5dAmPO.png

So set it to 150% and hold on… :slight_smile: