Hey
Sorry for hijacking your post, but I’ve read it and saw the community helped you a lot so I thought I’d jump in. First let me say English is not my main language, so sometimes I get slow understanding some things. Specially being a noob at electronics.
So, I’ve got my geeetech A10 2 weeks ago. First thing I wanted to do was replace the drivers. The noise is really anoying so i bought this one’s:
I was told to check the tension on my belts (looks fine to me) and the voltage on the drivers, to make sure they are not overheating and missing steps (from what I understood). I’ve measured this voltages:
I don’t know how to interpret the first picture, I assume the second picture is a layer shift on X or Y. Did your new driver “step sticks” come with documentation? The voltage you are setting controls current, but that depends on what resistor is being used to sense current… So they should tell you what voltage to set for 1A of current. You can also check to make sure that your stepper motors are (like @NedMan’s) rated at 1A.
Is there any chance you are overextruding? One possible source of layer shift is the nozzle bumping into a cooled layer of plastic that has bulged up because of overextrusion.
Thanks for the reply. The first picture is the beginning of the C letter print. I was there and heard some kind of bump, then noticed on the exterior wall a shift. Consequently the filling started apart from the other wall. I knew it was going to end up like the S so i stopped it.
I printed this cube and looks ok to me.
Btw, those failures are from stock. I’ve just received the new drivers that can confirm are these:
Planning on installing them tonight. My doubts were about what voltages am I supposed to use, and mainly if the ones I was using with a4988, where correct. I was trying to check if there could be a overheating issue (more then one person told me to check them).
When you’re a newbie every answer you read you try to check. I still can’t tell if an answer is dumb or not. Lol
An easy check is if the stepper motors are cold to the touch they don’t have enough current, but if they are too hot to touch they may be ruined. Those voltages don’t look like they were set to exact values — given the same motors on each axis I’d expect the voltages to be the same.
The fact that you “heard some kind of bump” confirms at least the possibility over-extrusion. Layer shifts being further up the S wouldn’t be characteristic of the bed being out of tram (not level).
If the shifts are a multiple of 2mm then belt tension probably is actually a problem and it probably actually skipped one or more teeth. If they are not, then it skipped steps instead, but 1V reference is unlikely to be such insufficient current that you are skipping steps in normal use without something else really causing it like overextrusion, or excessive acceleration.
I think I got it
One thing in going to check for sure are the belts tension.
I was just checking the tmc2208 that I bought and I think it was a bad buy. Looks like they are just for using with UART and I think my board does not support it .
That first picture shows poor bed level/high adjustment and next to no first layer adhesion. I would never continue a print with the first layer looking like that.
About that you’re probably right. I remember I calibrated, but lowered the bed a little more than usual because my prints where getting to much stuck. That’s a trick CHEP talked about in his channel. Also my first layer was not sticking so i had some glue tube around and used it. It sticked but not perfect .
That’s also something I’m learning to tune also. I think my bed if somewhat uneven at the center.
yes, besides calibrating the extruder, getting familiar and practice with getting the bed level and calibrated to the hot end. I use a piece of standard white paper and my hotend heated to 185C then calibrate to just dragging on the paper at 4 point and then check the center for standard Cartesian 3D printers.
Yes, they should support both types of signalling, but the things that go beyond what DIR/STEP/EN can do obviously can’t be done over DIR/STEP/EN and so require using the UART. For just drop-in they should still work with DIR/STEP/EN.
For the moment I would be happy with that.
Several people told to change the motherboard to something like a skr mini E3, but that’s hardly something I can think to archive having only barely two weeks of this
Someone also told me I have to change some jumpers because of the microsteps? Because the A10 only supports 16?
Is that correct?
I think that you have to rebuild the firmware anyway because DIR is inverted, and @NedMan said that the fork of Marlin he used was integrated back into the core Marlin.
I seem to remember setting my tmc2209s to 0.9V. 1.0V should be fine. Here is a discussion I did about installing my tmc2209s
I let the firmware handle the DIR change so I didn’t need to use any jumpers. As @mcdanlj said the firmware I was using was integrated into core Marlin. Here is a video installing Marlin on the A10.
Hi. So I decided to delay the drivers replacement for another time. I took the weekend to do all the step by step configurations I should have done when I received the printer. Honestly, I’m just to noob for this…
Iv’e checked the bolts and screws, the belts.
So,now i need to make sure are the vrefs that came with the A4988 are correct. That’s where I need help now, so please bear with me.
There’s a fairly wide range of functional values, as is evident from the lack of consistency of advice. They are in a reasonable range right now; so I really don’t think that this is your problem.
It’s much more likely to be a mechanical problem. Here’s some examples of kinds of mechanical possibilities.
Over-extrusion
Have you checked the extruder? Do you know about marking 100mm of filament and using the menus to extrude 100mm and measuring whether it is correct?
If your filament diameter is smaller than your slicer is configured for, it will over-extrude
Mechanical looseness: If either the bed or the extruder can wobble, imprecise extrusion can create bumps that cause the nozzle to “hang up” and “skip a step” resulting in layer shift.
Bad stepper: Incredibly unlikely here, but I’ve had a contaminated stepper with something that has occasionally bound the bearings inside the stepper and then it would recover when it reversed direction. That took a long time to diagnose. (And when I replaced the bearings in the stepper, I never got it running smoothly.)
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