For those using t-glase clear what bed surface and temp have you found that works. I have tried clean glass and my current favourite for nylon, ABS and PLA - PVA glue and still had a corner lift off.
@William_Frick The Tg of t-glase is right at 78C. Sticks well to clean boro/pyrex at 60C. Not quite as good with plain replacement glass. PVA on 50-60C boro should work well up to 60C. For large parts with a lot of flat surface, try 2 layers of PVA. One, then let dry, then a 2nd.
@Tom_Martz Thank you for the suggestions. The taulman site has useful information but seems a little short in some areas. Cooling strategies while printing isn’t even mentioned for t-glase or nylon !
@Tom_Martz What’s “boro”?
@Ben_Jackson I think he means borosilicate or pyrex. A heat treated or tempered glass.
I’ve only ever printed T-glase on cold blue tape.
I printed T-Glase on a mirror tile heated to 55 with hairspray as a fixative. No problems with it sticking but it didn’t bridge as well as other filaments despite using cooling. Guess I just need to play with it more.
Just a heads up, Pyrex is borosilicate in Europe, but soda ash (same as replacement glass, I think) in the US.
Blue painter tape, maybe make sure you are getting flat glass. Tip: When buying glass at a hardware store, say you are using it for photography. If they are good, they’ll fish out the flattest, straightest piece for ya.
Has anyone printed on Kapton?
I received my T-Glase today. Working a treat on Kapton @ 70 degrees. It’s great stuff.