For some odd reason my extruder temp is jumping back and forth about -+ 10 degress, i first suspect it was a bad cartigre, but as you can see im using a new block, cartigre, but i get the same issue, any ideas?
Im using a craftbot
problem is the bed sensor not the hotend from the screen. bed too cold…
That looks like -+5, not 10. Is it using PID, dead wait, bang bang or some other temperature control? If it is PID control, I would look up the gcode to initiate PID tuning and set it to tune for the highest temperature you might use plus 2C. I say plus 2C because otherwise it might not want to reach the temperature. Aiming for higher temperatures is more important for heated beds that are a pain to heat up.
Could you try a different fan setting? The fan that cools the cooling fins of the hotend may be getting cooled too much of the air might to be kept away from the heat block.
There is a chance that the part cooling fan might cool the nozzle if it is blowing too hard.
I typically run the pid auto tune with the nozzle close to the bed and the fans on full
Is the sensor in good secure contact with the block? Is the heater secure? Is the heater from the manufacturer? If the heater is too far off original spec then the stock tune can be incorrect for the new heater.
might be the small screw that holds the PID sensor not tightened enough
Likely a PID auto tune issue. Auto tune only gets you so close and then you need to fine tune it. Here are some general guidelines to manually tuning it. Make changes in 2-3% increments of the value. Tune it to the temperatures you will be using for best results but I find I can get mine to nail my target temp without any fluctuation at all.
First you should understand what the PID parameters are.
- Kp is the “proportional” term. The further off target you are, the more power this term contributes.
- Ki is the “integral” term. This term contributes more control input as the accumulated offset over time between measured and target temperatures increases. In other words the longer you’ve been off target, the more input this term will contribute in the direction of the target (could be more or less heater power).
- Kd is the “derivative” term. This term allows the controller to “predict” or look ahead of the current temperature to slow the rate of change down and let the measured temperature creep up on the target. Mathematically speaking it attempts to minimize the slope of the temperature curve with respect to the target.
From this understanding we can derive some very generic rules of adjusting your values:
- if the temperature is getting too hot before settling down, increase Kd and decrease Kp (more creeping up on the temperature and less muscling it around)
- if the temperature tapers off just under the target and never quite reaches it, decrease Kd and increase Ki (less creeping up alongside the target, and more correction for cumulative offset) Increasing Ki means that cruising just a hair under the target for a long time will cause Ki to gradually put more power into the heater until it reaches the target. A higher Kd would fight this process by decreasing power to get the measured temperature curve parallel to the target temperature line.
- if the temperatures are taking a long time to settle, oscillating or hunting indefinitely, decrease Ki and increase Kd (less agitation from cumulative error, and more gliding into alignment with the target); alternatively try decreasing all three terms… the PID equivalent of taking some deep breaths and relaxing the amount of control you’re exerting
Due to the craftbot system is close source, my only hope was to upgrade the firmware, sadly while doing that it got erased and undetected by the computer, now i have a bricked machine and i cant figure it out how to make it work, will keep trying to flash the printer and see what happends.
@lightshadown what board did you brick?
im using the craftbot, from craftunique, and i think i bricked the main board while trying to upgrade the firmware, already trying with a second computer.
I was hoping for something more technical like Rambo v1, Smoothieboard v2 or something like that. The lack of clarity means nobody would be able to give any advice on unbricking it. I guess you did not ask for help on it either though. Good luck.
If it was an Arduino based system, you can flash the usb interface chip and the Atmega chip seperately. Flashing the usb interface chip with what is supposed to be on the Atmega chip would brick the Arduino and then I am not sure how you would unbrick it. There might be a similar setup on your board.
After trying a lot i manage to update the firmware, it was a mac related problem, apparently the mac version of the firmware updater had some sort of bug and only erase the printer firmware but it was unable to write the new one, went to windows version and worked perfect, now the heater problen its fixed