Finally calibrated my extruder. The difference is mind blowing!
What steps did you follow?
Measure 100mm of filament. Use matter control to extrude 100mm. Measure how much was actually extruded. Use that to find the multiplier. Then multiply that by how many steps the printer uses per mm to get your new number of steps per mm. Then use matter control to save that number to EEPROM. Hang on let me link the video im not very good at explaining lol
Sorry it took a while. Wouldnt let me comment
Maybe use the same filament for before and after shots to be objective?
Used up all my silver before i decided to calibrate lol
very importand step! - I have also done that when changing to a smaller extruder gear, but i used 1000mm (1 meter filament) in the end to check accuracy (as the error will accumulate over length).
Take it for what it is worth, but IMHO you shouldn’t modify steps/mm for calibrating your extruder for each filament. That is what the flow multiplier setting in your slicer is for. Extruders should be initially calibrated once, and cold by removing the nozzle so the filament extrudes with no pressure (or just disconnect the bowden tube if you have a remote extruder motor). Measure the distance as you did by telling it to extrude an amount and measuring the difference. Use the longest distance you can accurately measure for the most accurate reading (my digital calipers go to about 150mm).
Once you have that setting you should be really close. Save it to the EEPROM, or better yet update the setting in your firmware. When you open a new spool of filament make a new filament profile in your slic3r. Then print a single wall calibration piece and measure the thickness of the actual extrusion. Then adjust the flow multiplier up or down a few percent to get it as accurate as possible. Slic3r will let you set the multiplier down at least to a hundredth of a percent maybe even smaller, so you can get really exact in your adjustments.
A lot of things can affect the extrusion volume in your extruder. Filament diameter, filament material, spring tension, etc. If you just print one spool all the time till you run out than it doesn’t matter. But if you are like me and have literally 30+ spools of open filament of different types/colors, creating a profile each time you start a new spool means you can come back to it months later, select the filament profile, and still have your calibration spot on. EEPROM adjustments are not that convenient in comparison. Changing the steps/mm will also affect your retraction distances as well. And if your EEPROM memory gets reset you lose your settings.
The improved print really does look nice! Though it looks like you might have a tiny bit of perimeter separation on the top at the lip of the whistle. Another trick to get really nice top print surfaces is to set the top layer extrusion width slightly thinner. Slic3r has this setting and is one of the main reasons I use it. Cura and the rest I think have added it too. By changing the top extrusion width to the exact same (or very slightly less) width as the nozzle opening, you can pack more “lines” on the top layer and the nozzle tip will help blend the lines together even further as it overlaps the previously laid line a bit more. 
This is a crappy cell phone pic, and the filament I was using had absorbed some moisture so there were some steam bubbles in the print, but it is an example of using the top layer extrusion width setting to make the print lines virtually disappear. The thinner extrusion selling also helps it fill in finer details like the letters on your print., If you aren’t using it you might want to give it a try
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In S3D you can enter the actual diameter of the filament. I tested some very cheap filament and the diameter was around 1.68. Entered that in S3D and the first layer was fine, first print.
Having said that, yes it is very important to make sure you get the standard settings of your extruder correct. One of the reasons it is important to calibrate using high quality filament, or else you are always chasing the correct steps.
And just yesterday my printer decided to die. Now i cant get it to calibrate at all lol
@Jason_D i appreciate the tip man. I decided to calibrate the extruder as im still testing out different filaments from different companies so i dont wanna save profiles for a filament i might not use again. And i do tend to use up the whole roll before changing it out