Figure I should post something I have been testing for a few months now. My Eustathios has always printed great for me. But there was one problem… Every once and a while Z-ribbing would rear it’s head. Not bad by any means… but faintly there and it bugged me. Something to note is that my printer is a Eustathios 1.5V (not quite an original @Jason_Smith version, but not upgraded with the extra Z-height, 608 lead screw support bearings, and ball screws of the V2).
So I had these two Tr8x8 captive lead screw motors left over from working on the the Talos3D Spartan with @Alex_Lee . They were in a box and getting lonely, so I printed some quick brackets and threw them in. Figured it would be a fun test.
So here are my findings:
1.) These are fast. Much faster than I thought they would be. And so much faster than a 2mm pitch Misumi Lead Screws like I had. I have Z-hop enabled now on all my Eustathios prints and I love it. I haven’t had a nozzle catch since I installed them and that is a blessing. These style printers don’t like catching the nozzle because bushings used in the cross gantry will bind if side loaded too hard… which leads to the skipped steps.
2.) Z-ribbing is a thing of the past for me. No other changes to the system.
3.) They can be a pain. After the print completes my gcodes disables the motors. If I don’t re-enable the motor before removing a print it can cause the two motors to come out a sync, meaning I need to recalibrate.
4.) I have the two motors wired in parallel off one driver on my Azteeg X5 mini V1. The driver has no issue doing it, because to be honest the gear and screw reduction on Z means I don’t need to run the motors at high current to get the performance it needs.
5.) It is nice to not have the belt through the center of the underbelly. But that is a double edged sword. Because it means as I said above the motors can get out of sync.
6.) I still think the belt synchronized method yields less leveling headache and better bed zero repetability. But the TR8x8 pitch yields faster Z and smoother Z-motion. Maybe a combo of the two. Keep the bed running on belt synchronized drive. But replace the lead screws or ball screws with a section of TR8x8 and some cheap acetal TR8x8 lead nuts.
Anyway thought I would share. Let me know what you guys think.