Another thing to note is that even though the BTT touch screen is very handy… I also have a lot of niece features implemented from the standard Marlin Full Graphics Smart Display menu system which are not in the BTT Touchscreen menu yet. So when you are configuring perhaps look into starting the TFT in Marlin mode while you dial in the printer. Once everything is configured the TFT touchscreen is easier for day to day use. But the Marlin Mode has more horsepower
Awesome! Thanks Eric! I did order dual z drivers with the controller board so that should work great.
Hi. I’m hoping to get some help with wires and had a couple of questions. But first a quick update on my build. I got my new BIQU SKR 1.4 turbo board and TFT board and started to layout where the electronics package will go. Since I’m not running a base cover I’ve been investigating options and examples from other builds. I’ve decided to mount the PSU, SSR, and controller board to a DIN rail that I’ll mount to the bottom of the printer.
I also started planning out the wiring. Due to the size of the printer and how I plan to run the cables, the stock cables that came with most of the electronics and hardware will be short. I want to avoid splicing cables and made custom length cables for the X, Y, and extruder. It was my first stab at crimping such small connectors but got them down after a few tried. I’m hoping by next weekend I will have all but the hotend and heatbed wired up and can start getting the SKR board configured for it’s first movements!
Okay, so the problem I am running into now is that I’ll also need a longer hotend heater cartridge extension wire and heatbed wire. The E3D V6 hotend wire looks like some kind of high temp fiberglass woven covered wire. I can’t seem to source it or figure out what kind of wire it is so I can get the length I need. Would anyone know what kind of wire it is? I have some 18 awg silicon cable on hand that is high temperature resistance 200 degree C. Would that be a safe alternative to use?
Normally I make sure to have some sort of electrical union connection out on the hot end to make things easy to replace (jst, microfit molex, etc). So I just run normal my silicone wires out to the hot end carriage inside a woven nylon sleeve, and then have my connection out there which meets up with the heater cartridges and thermistors wires.
Thanks Eric. I plan to use the same connectors that came with the V6 hotend which appears to be Molex Microfits. The extension cable that it came with was just a bit short so I’m making a new one. Do you have just the heater cartridge cable in the nylon sleeve by itself or can it be bundled with other cables?
Also, do you know the wire type the OE E3D V6 heater cartridge came with?
I have all the cables bundled together. Unfortunately I don’t know the name for that heater cartridge cable.
Eric, did you have to clip the diag pin on the TMC2209 drivers for the dual Z?
Mine is running on a SKR V1.3 (not 1.4 Turbo). I am not certain. I also use a BLTouch, so that acts as my Zhome switch.
But reading the manual if you don’t use sensorless homing, yes you clip the Diag pin for those drivers (Seems like and odd thing to have users do). The SKR V1.3 did this with jumpers.
Ah okay I thought you updated to the SKR 1.4 controller. I thought it was strange as well to have to cut it which is why I opted to try senseless homing first. I guess if you’re careful it could be bent out of the way so it s not as permanent as clipping that pin.
It also sounds like it is possible to run the Z without having to cut that pin with the BLTouch but I’ll need to dig into that more.
If it were me, I would probably desolder it versus clipping it.
I hope you all had a safe and Happy Thanksgiving here in the USA. I made a lot of progress this week with the electronics. I have almost all the electronics mounted and wired up. I still have work to do on build plate so I can’t mount the heat pad and bed thermistor yet. I got Marlin running on the SKR 1.4 Turbo board using Eric’s config as a base. I had to tweak it a bit since I am trying out sensorless homing. Anyway, so far I tested all the steppers and they are working. My X and Y is inverted so I think I need to tweak Marlin to correct that. Hotend is also starting up great. It was great to see the printer have movement! I can’t wait to get the bed on there so I can finalize all the tests and configuration and perform the first print. Updated photos are attached!
Question for @Eclsnowman, is there a gantry break-in GCODE you recommend for the Eustathios?
Oh man. I love the din rail electrical setup. So clean.
For the breakin gcode, you can use the one for Eustathios V2. It could be tweaked slightly for V2.5 since the travel area is greater on 2.5… but it will certainly get the job done.
Thanks Eric! It turned out a lot better than I thought it would. I’m getting there!
Wow, that is looking very nice, very clean - well done!