Could this be the reason my bulldog XL extruder is slipping. This is the temp of my E3D hotend. Does it get harder to extruder the higher the temp. Hotend suppose to be 235C and reading 360C. I know in the video my extruder is skipping steps. Ive tried tunning the pololu with no luck. http://youtu.be/_v-U6uWGefw
I had the same problem when my extruder’s thermistor died. It failed reading 25C. It looks like the printer thinks your temp is too low, and is sending full power. When this happened to me the extruder was damaged.
This is a all metal E3D hotend and should be just fine at this temp. Im using ABS for my plastic and Ive noticed it smoking before just never thought of it. Ive been looking around and it looks like the thermal couple came out of the hole. Still wondering if it becomes harder to extrude at higher temps
When you reach those temps, filament starts carbonizing and you’d more than likely just experience a full on clog.
It was extruding at that temp with me pushing the filament through it. So my next question is there anything that works better than a thermal couple. They are very small hard to work with short out easy and dont stay in place very well. Ive looked for threaded thermal couples and it sounds like it would work great and fix those problem just cant find one small enough
oops I ment thermistor why cant they be easier to work with
Honestly, they’re pretty darn easy. They give 100k resistance at room temp, go down in resistance the hotter they get, and pretty much just do their thing. I’ve built over 100 3D printers in the past 6 months, and have only ever had problems with a thermistor when it was tightened down too hard and crushed or otherwise mishandled.
Ive used kapton tape to hold them into place. Normally the kapton comes off and the thermistor comes out. Or when it comes out it seems to short. I followed the instructions on the E3D website. What do you use to hold it into place
What I usually do is use some muffler putty, which you can get at a DiscountAuto or other auto parts store, and putty it in place. (This is what I do for the J-heads anyways)
The newer E3D heater blocks are much better in this regard. Instead of using kapton, which is a huge pain in the ass, they drilled/tapped a hole alongside the thermistor hole which you use to trap the thermistor inside. You can use a v6 heater block on a v5 E3D hot end (generally referred to as a E3D 5.5 upgrade)
I also ended up buying some very small gauge PTFE tubing a long time ago that I use to insulate the metal leads. You can get the stuff from McMaster-Carr for like $4-6ft of the stuff. Honestly the ferrules that Sanjay used are an amazing way to get them hooked up properly. I used to have to solder them…not fun.
Yes the Ferrules work very well my last one I soldered. After looking at the V6 hotend I think I can mod my V5 block to have the same kind of thing to hold the thermistor.