BYQ 3.0 first Polish fully plywood 3D printer ;)

BYQ 3.0 first Polish fully plywood 3D printer :wink:

Looks good. :slight_smile: Are you going to share the design?

Yes, but first I have to workout some construction issues. Z-X axis works fine, but smooth rods are bending under low force put on extruder motor and that is my main source of worry…

Cool, but don’t hurry, I’m just asking :wink:

I’m always in hurry :wink:

Graber users converge :slight_smile:
It’s great to see an extruder design - in my case that was the only part I had to find printed, and you can imagine, a guy who builds a plywood frame is most often one who has no access to 3D printers. Plus, plywood should not be as heat-sensitive as ABS - so, great idea!
Btw, why do you have such wide walls on left and right side? They eat up space that could ne occupied by the bed, don’t they?
Great shelf on top - a good start for a 1-motor Z axis… All in all a very neat kind of frame
Which smooth rods are bending? I find that I have to apply a lot of force to bend my 8-mm, but still one Z-rod is already arc-shaped, so I wonder whether I am having a similar kind of problems…
PS: word of advice: put more holes in the walls of the bottom box. You’d want to attach stuff to them, and to put wires through, right? You’d not want to pass all your wiring around the case would you? If I ever redo my frame, I will make much more holes in it…

@Igor_Larine all walls are thicker because I reduce non construction relevant curves to cut it quicker. 5 frames from 8mm plywood are cut in 5h. On back are hidden PSU at right(if you’re looking at front), and electronic at left. “Wings” are longer to hide whole pcb and connectors. I planned to make arcilic hoods with fans for cooling pcb, but I have changed plans. Now I’m focused on maximal reduction of printed parts. Extruder is based on yegah extruder.

X smooth rods are bending. I thing that it is caused by small distance between rods in original design there is 45mm space in my 31.5mm. More over weight of extruder in i3 is tacked between X rods. I have to sleep overnight with this issues and figure out how to improve this design. Maybe some advices?

btw. That is my third iteration of my idea about Prusa i3;)

Nice made @Pawel_Dobrowolski

HA ! i started to make the base mechanisms last year on bits of wood. due to some complicated reasons, i never finished it. maybe i will have time to continue this year. i cut all the wood bits manually using a jigsaw n its quite bad precision haha. woood is a great medium to work with n your CNC cuts looks sleek, you must have had a great time! … god speed on your works ! …

wow, that’s an impressive collection of machined parts you have there…

8 mm material, that’s nice :slight_smile: The one I used at the moment is made of 6 mm - cannot complain, but would not want to hang a filament roll on that frame for example.
X rods - in my case the distance between then is 37.3 and I have had no problems with them bending. I mean, the X motor must apply a realy lot of force perpendicular to the rod’s center in order to bend it even slightly, right? I have recently managed to make mine quite parallel - 37.1 to 37.3 from left to right, but before the gap between them was 37.2-38.5 and I can tell you it did not really interfere with the movement or anything. Could there be something wrong with your linear bearings? That’s the only thing that comes to mind - LM8UUs are either not aligned and try to bite intoo the rod while moving, or maybe something wrong with the inner bearing cartridges. As for the rods - are they straight to begin with?
Btw, what is the bed size? Hard to guess, but if you say you hide a PSU behind one of the pillars it must be a largish frame after all…

By 31.5mm I meant distance between centers of rods. Here you have more-less how ATX PSU is hidden:
At the picture is my second iteration of i3.

Bearings and rods are fine. @Igor_Larine , have your grabber changed a lot since last photo at g+?

@Hans_Franke thanks!
@3roomlab plywood is very simple and effective material, I love work with it!

would love to learn how to measure between rod centres :slight_smile: All I could come up with is just using calipers and sticking them between rods, more or less vertically… You can calculate the rest but that’s already not measured but calculated values… Anyway, what kind of rods are you using? It would be interesting to see a video of them bending - maybe I experience something like this but not notice it.
My Graber i3 has not changed where it could be seen - I am adjusting things here and there (mostly X axis - you may have seen my post of missing steps a while back) but overall it’s the same.
I have chosen this particular design because I have got less space on the desk, so the more I can stack vertically the better - PSU is inside the lower box in my case, and only controller is behind the wing. Would love to stick the controller into the box as well, for it to sit horizontally - less worry for me that the radiators will drop off.
Btw, another question about the extruder - isn’t the motor a bit too deep in all the layers of plywood? What are you going to use as gears and how will they interconnect? Or are you going to use a small-length circular belt, like the YRUDS/yegahC? That would make it necessary to have at least one printed part - that big gear on the hobbed bolt, right?

Smoothen rods are hardened special for linear bearings.
I’ve measured it at drawing in CAD.
This extruder is based at

hmmm? which machined parts? stepper holder? i tried to try a large threaded rod, it was bad lol.