I’ve got my CNC corner clamp mostly done, but I’d like to add some embellishments.
Specifically, I want to make the edges like a ruler. Millimeters on the shorter inside edges and inches on the long outer edges.
Why both? I like having both metric and imperial on rulers/tape measures because I grew up on imperial but I’m trying to train myself to think intuitively in metric, and having both helps me do that.
I know how to add text in FreeCAD (cumbersome, but I can do it–though I wish this was built in better).
But I’m struggling with how to place the tick marks precisely. Any thoughts here in the hive mind?
Hi James. What material are you going to use for the guide?
As to your metric comment, I to was brought up on imperial and started using metric during my apprenticeship back in the 60’s. I much prefer to work in metric (base 10 is so much easier) but, and its a big but, I still imagine in imperial. I know what 1.5 thou looks and feels like and I know that dimension is about an inch, but when I measure it, its 2.54cm …. strange eh.
There are plenty of rulers and tape measures with both imperial and metric markers. Why don’t you cut those to length and glue these on the 3d printed part.
Note that in addition to making the markings on the part, one will want to consider the mechanism of applying the tool to the part to make the marks — how precise can the machine move? How well is it calibrated? How will the underlying grid of the machines motion interact with the measurement markings?
That said, the one time I made a measurement tool on my machine, it was done by just V-engraving the markings — does the CAM workbench have an option for doing that?
This kind of what I was thinking, but I’m unsure of what to make the “ticks” out of. Should I be doing this in a sketch? Like, making a rectangle and then doing an array of that? If so, how would I account for the width of the tick mark itself to prevent measurement error as it increases?
For now, this is just academic. I 3D printed the part already. It’s ok. I suppose I could just put a ruler on it and use a marker to note the lengths. Long term I may try to add the tick marks and maybe even make it out of something more durable like plywood, but for now I’m done. Thanks for the feedback all!
Ha! That’s not a bad idea. I have a K40 CO2 laser in my garage, but I haven’t fired it up in probably over 2 years. I’m trying to get my garage workspace going again, so maybe I’ll do that after I feel like I’ve got my CNC router skills nailed down.
But I just bought an AnyCubic Kobra S1 combo in early December, and that has been a big (fun!) distraction. Mostly just printing toys for my 8yo daughter. So.Many.Dragons!
If you do laser engrave them I would recommend laser cutting a cardboard positioning jig to make alignment easy. Also Test the engraving on some printed test piece of the same filament.
I’ve only laser engraved PLA and it takes a lot more power then you would think. PLA engraves very cleanly because you actually breaking down the PLA (poly lactic acid) into lactic acid monomer and CO2 which will both volatize away under the temperature of the laser.
You can also mask the part first and then use paint post engraving to infill the engravings.
In case anyone else wants to make this I’m attaching the STL file. And if you want to add tick marks to it, I’m also attaching the FreeCAD file. I’ve already 3D printed it and I’m finding it useful. Hopefully, others will, too. Cheers!
Years ago I couldn’t find my ‘stubby’ ruler (only 15cm long, really handy in cramped spaces), Anja eventually said ‘stop searching, make one.’
I didnt save the scadfile, but it turned out to be a very simple, fast and fun project. I now have several rulers I made, including one on 0.5mm modelers ply that flexes and conforms to curves nicely.
