Back to the drawing board!!! My Ox started doing the same thing again sporadically

yup gotta walk before you run man! HAHAH I am glad you are seeing better results. In fact I am sure all of are :slight_smile:

@Steven_O_Neill Perhaps others will add to this comment:: You might consider backing off on your microstepping on X and X, from (probably ) 8 to 4 or maybe even 2. That will give you a slightly ā€˜rougherā€™ cut, which on your job may or may not be objectionable or even visible. I have not had time to confirm, but I suspect holding torque specs on steppers are for steps, not microsteps. If you read the driver device data sheets carefully, youā€™ll see that microstepping is done by electronically offsetting the A-B drive phase angles between step polesā€¦
It would not surprise me that the holding torque 4 microsteps between poles is less than the holding torque on poles.
By how much, Iā€™m not sure.
You do have your tinyG drive pots maxed out, correct?

No I think my pots are in the middle, I turned them all up a minuscule amount (maybe 1 hour) but youā€™re saying they should be all the way up? Which means threaded all the way in till they stop and be careful about that Iā€™m sure?

@Steven_O_Neill In your case, I would say yes - I believe you need all the holding torque you can get. Iā€™ll assume you have a fan or something blowing on tinyG. Give your motors a touch test while running (or better yet, a low cost IR thermometer).
Be cautious but not afraid of the tinyG pots, they can be easily broken if over torqued, but they are not ā€˜flimsyā€™.

I have an IR thermometer, I havenā€™t checked their temp during operation but I will. I bet they are cool to warm, not hot. Weā€™ll see, I will report back later today.

@Steven_O_Neill Iā€™ve never seen a case where the trim pots (current adjustment) needs to be set to full on an OX build. An occasional 1.5kW spindle on the Z may require 3/4 of the adjustment.

Better to skip a step than break a belt, toast a stepper, or shear a screw.

@Brandon_Satterfield I would not disagree with Brandonā€™s comments, which I am assuming are experience based. My comments are theoretical, based on the assumption you are experiencing inadequate holding torque. I am wondering how often you change cutting tools. A dull tool could significantly increase the force required by the machine to push thru the material.

I change the bit almost every cut unless itā€™s just a small piece I might use it again. I can see the CF fibers fraying off the edges of the cut when itā€™s dull. I started buying my bits off of ebay from China for a $1 each instead of MCT where they were $5 each you think they could be that much better? They did seem to last longer? I have not turned up my pots though Iā€™ve thought about it. Iā€™ll keep cutting shallow, more passes, faster head speed. It does make sense though that only using the last .4mm of the bit to do all the cutting would dull faster than 1.4mm of the bit, still learning this stuff.

@Steven_O_Neill I have zero experience cutting this stuff so am learning from your experiments. Where to buy bits is part of the experiment, I doubt either the $1 or $5 comes with any ā€˜guaranteeā€™ as to manufacturing process control, raw material inspection, etc. As to depth, even assuming that your spindle has enough reserve output power to keep the bit spinning at the same speed independent of depth/load, the primary issue is likely to be heat dissipation in the bit, which is likely the ultimate killer (duller).