Anyone have a 3 point level bed? The corners of my prints are curling,

Diy infusion ok I hunderstand

@Kai_Behrends I don’t have a photo to show you, but the thermistor is secured. I have not had an issue with it in a long while, but if I remember correctly, the ramps board won’t cause any movement on a print if the temperature doesn’t register.

Ahh Ok that’s what I meant by ThermalRunawayProtection if you flashed a current Marlin to the RAMPS board it should be enabled yes. The problem is a lot of kits come with pretty old Marlin Versions or just have the protective settings disabled. Sorry if I’m being too annoying with these off topic posts.

Did you check that the bed is straight? It likely is and the reason it appears to be closer to the nozzle at the midle is that the rails or the frame is not straight. No amount of leveling the bed can fix that.

Moisture in the filament may increase shrinkage and warpage of a print .

@Kai_Behrends Off topic, yes, but it inadvertently helped me. So did Elfie Descarpentries response. I went to look at Gulfcoast’s site again and found a photograph showing how the bed should be setup. There was no photo like that for the separate bed, the one I bought. So, thank you for responding.

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@Baldur_Norddahl The bed is straight except for that high point by the middle screw.

@bernd_slemmen True, but my other corners and the rest of the print is fine.

@Clever_Crafts why is there a high point at the middle screw? There should not be. A plane is fully defined by three points. Either the bed is not flat. Alternatively it is the printer that is not straight. The later is more common because those rails are unsupported and will sag at the middle point due to the weight of the carriage.

@Baldur_Norddahl I am thinking now that the high point may be caused by the way I have setup the bed. I have two screws on both sides of the middle screw. Before I run my next print tomorrow, I will remove the two screws.

Clean the base with isopropyl alcohol or acetone with water

I had the same problem too

Curling on edges of build plate are always a pain, build tak is amazing, but sharp corners are always a pain I like to add 0.1 (layer height) circles on any 45 deg or sharper corner if you can’t simply bevel the first few layers… just FYI

FWIW, as @Soham_Jha mentioned, you can lightly wipe on some alcohol onto the blue tape and that’ll really get the prints to stick to it (and those corners). Of course you might have to drop the printer from the top of a building to get the print off. Sometimes it stick too well :frowning:

@James_Nelson Interesting! Thanks for the tip.

why wont you try bilinear bed leveling

@Soham_Jha What type of bed surface do you have?

@Tim_Sills Thanks for the tip. I would never have thought of that.

@The_Arduino_Guy_Hack That’s the same thing as auto bed leveling, right? If that’s right, I thought about trying it. I wanted to wait until I fixed the other problems that were causing leveling issues. I have addressed most of them now except for the frame. My frame is balanced now by some weights, including a box of nails (you can’t really see it in the photo, the box is behind the extruder). Something else that has stopped me is whether it would fix the problem with curling. My first 4 or 5 layers stick to bed just fine. The curling doesn’t start until the 5th or 6th layer. My understanding of auto leveling is that the first level is adjusted. I don’t understand how that will prevent curling of the higher layers. I want to be sure before I spend over $50 for a BL touch.

@Clever_Crafts if your first layer sticks and get apart as height increases then you should consider purchasing build tak or pei surface . if you are using threaded rods instead of lead screws then this might be problem. where hot end strikes the print and rip it from the bed. And also check the heatbed temperature try by increasing it to 65-70 for pla and 90+ for abs as you are using painters tape.